Having recovered the abandoned bike the evening before, all was set for the last day. The ferocious wind of the previous day had all but gone and the day promised to be dry wig even a little sunshine. Following the coast road, the last few hills of Sutherland proved to be pretty stiff especially when you are at the point when the finish can't come soon enough.
Once over the county border into Caithness the terrain changed pretty abruptly to gently rolling moorland. Just trying to keep the legs moving took more effort than before and I kept rushing rather than pacing myself and making steady progress. Thurso was midway between Strathy and John O'Groats and called in to sort out my train home. Assuming I could get me and the bike on the Friday night sleeper it was at first a bit of a blow to have to wait until Tuesday night. However, having come all this way it would be good to hang around a bit. With a hostel booked in Thurso and a bacon buttie inside it was time for the last 20 miles.
The sun came out and there was a slight possibility of sunburn! I filled my pockets up with peanuts and raisins and wine gums so that I didn't have to stop again. Setting off for the last little bit and impatience got the better of me and the pace was too high! Food and water got shoveled in while flying along the road as the miles counted down. The road never seemed to end and it really felt like the goal kept moving. I was busy cursing and swearing when I recognised the roof of the old John O'Groats hotel to the north of me. The last left turn and a down hill run in beautiful autumn sunshine and it was finished.
Saturday 17 September 2011
Wednesday 14 September 2011
Day 31 - Tongue to Strathy
Weather forecast looked OK this morning with a little wind growing in strength throughout the day. Possibility of showers later.
Well what actually happened was squall after squall blowing in off the sea which meant continuos heavy rain and wind. Lots of lovely exposed hills!
I made it to within about 2 miles of the B and B before taking refuge in a phone box as I couldn't stand up in the wind. The kind owners took pity on me and came to pick me up before shoveling hot soup down me to help me thaw out.
42 miles left to do and the wind should drop right off over night. So a quick run up the hill tomorrow to pick up the bike and I'll be hopefully all set for the grand finish.
Well what actually happened was squall after squall blowing in off the sea which meant continuos heavy rain and wind. Lots of lovely exposed hills!
I made it to within about 2 miles of the B and B before taking refuge in a phone box as I couldn't stand up in the wind. The kind owners took pity on me and came to pick me up before shoveling hot soup down me to help me thaw out.
42 miles left to do and the wind should drop right off over night. So a quick run up the hill tomorrow to pick up the bike and I'll be hopefully all set for the grand finish.
Day 30 - Crask to Tongue
My first taste of real Scots porridge was this morning for breakfast. Made with water and salt. It was a bit of a shock at first but it kind of made sense by the last spoon.
Heavy rain today and just enough wind to make things very chilly but a very straight forward and pretty ride from Crask up to Tongue. A couple of climbs to make it interesting and beautiful heather covered hills criss crossed by over flowing peaty streams. All I could hear at times was the burbbling of the braes.
A call now to all bird nerds! I saw a tiny little diving bird on the shore of a fresh water loch. It was all black apart from a white breast plate. It was diving along the shore line and when it flew off it flew about 6 inches off the surface of the water.
Had a cold afternoon waiting for the hostel to open but warm now.
Heavy rain today and just enough wind to make things very chilly but a very straight forward and pretty ride from Crask up to Tongue. A couple of climbs to make it interesting and beautiful heather covered hills criss crossed by over flowing peaty streams. All I could hear at times was the burbbling of the braes.
A call now to all bird nerds! I saw a tiny little diving bird on the shore of a fresh water loch. It was all black apart from a white breast plate. It was diving along the shore line and when it flew off it flew about 6 inches off the surface of the water.
Had a cold afternoon waiting for the hostel to open but warm now.
Day 29 - Rogart to Crask
Putting off the departure for as long as possible because of the rain has become a daily ritual and my ability to faff has become finely honed. With a couple of bowls of porridge inside me I was ready to hit the road with full wet weather gear. Sure enough the rain stopped and I was boiling so off it all came.
From Rogart there was a lovely run along the bottom of the glen and then a long and gentle climb before dropping down into Lairg. Bacon buttie and coffee and time for the last leg over remote forestry commission land to the village of Crask.
As you approach Crask there is the sign for Crask. Within 50 yards there is a house. Within another 50 yards the white painted Crask Inn and then the sign the other end of Crask. Big city!
If anyone is ever up this way a visit to the Crask Inn is a must. It is in the middle of nowhere and no power until the gennie gets started in the afternoon. Kai and Mike the owners are the most welcoming hosts and you get introduced to everyone when you arrive including the three sheep dogs.
Seeing as the nearest other village was 12 miles in either direction I had dinner at the inn. Smoked salmon, steak and ale pie and black currant sponge. Absolutely stuffed by the end of it.
From Rogart there was a lovely run along the bottom of the glen and then a long and gentle climb before dropping down into Lairg. Bacon buttie and coffee and time for the last leg over remote forestry commission land to the village of Crask.
As you approach Crask there is the sign for Crask. Within 50 yards there is a house. Within another 50 yards the white painted Crask Inn and then the sign the other end of Crask. Big city!
If anyone is ever up this way a visit to the Crask Inn is a must. It is in the middle of nowhere and no power until the gennie gets started in the afternoon. Kai and Mike the owners are the most welcoming hosts and you get introduced to everyone when you arrive including the three sheep dogs.
Seeing as the nearest other village was 12 miles in either direction I had dinner at the inn. Smoked salmon, steak and ale pie and black currant sponge. Absolutely stuffed by the end of it.
Monday 12 September 2011
Day 28 - Alness to Rogart
Tail wind again so flew along the A9 which was pretty quiet. So far the storm hasn't been too bad although along the West coast and by the Isle of Skye it has been pretty bad.
Left turn off the A9 at something called the "Mound" and then a straight run along a small Glen and into Rogart. The hostel tonight is next to Rogart station and is in a series of railway carriage. It's a really great spot and I'm definately going to come back one day.
If weather is ok I'll be finishing on Thursday 15th and on the sleeper from Inverness on Friday the 16th. Fingers crossed I'll be in my own bed on Saturday night
Left turn off the A9 at something called the "Mound" and then a straight run along a small Glen and into Rogart. The hostel tonight is next to Rogart station and is in a series of railway carriage. It's a really great spot and I'm definately going to come back one day.
If weather is ok I'll be finishing on Thursday 15th and on the sleeper from Inverness on Friday the 16th. Fingers crossed I'll be in my own bed on Saturday night
Sunday 11 September 2011
Day 27 - Lewiston to Alness
Had a bit of a shock this morning with a really stiff climb from Drumnadrochit over the hill to Beauly. When you're not expecting a hill they seem to be longer and steeper than anything done before.
Once that little bugger of a hill was out of the way it was pretty much a down hill run into the village of Beauly. Sitting in the cafe over a bacon and egg butty I had a really strong sense of deja vue. This time it wasn't deja vue, I'd eaten in the sane cafe about 2 years ago when I was driving down the Great Glen to Oban. It wasn't until I was eating my butty that I remembered.
After re-fueling at Beauly I followed the road through Muir of Ord up to Dingwall battering against a head wind pretty much all the way. The battering continued through the town and then along the side of the water to join up with the A9 and into Alness.
After cleaning up there was a quick trip down to the waters edge to look at the oil rigs parked in the firth. Curry, beer and bed were calling. If course Saturday night is disco night and my room luckily right over the disco. Major whinge until I got a different room.
Once that little bugger of a hill was out of the way it was pretty much a down hill run into the village of Beauly. Sitting in the cafe over a bacon and egg butty I had a really strong sense of deja vue. This time it wasn't deja vue, I'd eaten in the sane cafe about 2 years ago when I was driving down the Great Glen to Oban. It wasn't until I was eating my butty that I remembered.
After re-fueling at Beauly I followed the road through Muir of Ord up to Dingwall battering against a head wind pretty much all the way. The battering continued through the town and then along the side of the water to join up with the A9 and into Alness.
After cleaning up there was a quick trip down to the waters edge to look at the oil rigs parked in the firth. Curry, beer and bed were calling. If course Saturday night is disco night and my room luckily right over the disco. Major whinge until I got a different room.
Friday 9 September 2011
Day 26 - Invergarry to Lewiston
The route was easy again today, just following the A82 along the loch side to Lewiston near Drumnadrochit.
Obviously the sunshine of yesterday came at a price and that was for rain today. It belted down for the whole time I was riding and didn't let up until I had finished for the day! Bugger! The wind has also swung round to a north easterly and right into my face. Although only 25 miles I was just battered by the wind which made it feel like I've done 40 miles. All cleaned up and settled in at the hostel called the Loch Ness Back packers. Anyway, time for a bit of shut eye before my tea. Night all!
Obviously the sunshine of yesterday came at a price and that was for rain today. It belted down for the whole time I was riding and didn't let up until I had finished for the day! Bugger! The wind has also swung round to a north easterly and right into my face. Although only 25 miles I was just battered by the wind which made it feel like I've done 40 miles. All cleaned up and settled in at the hostel called the Loch Ness Back packers. Anyway, time for a bit of shut eye before my tea. Night all!
Thursday 8 September 2011
Day 25 - Glen Coe to Invergarry
After my sort of day off yesterday I was raring to go!
With a South Westerly behind me I flew into Fort William covering the 17 miles in about an hour and ten minutes. Pretty quick for me. Still no sign of the top of Ben Nevis. I've been here three bloody times now and not a sight!
On the way into Fort William I bumped into a cyclist who was on his way to the west coast to tour round and I was complaining about the A82. He suggested that I go left just after Fort William to Banavie then right at Banavie to Clunes. At Clunes I could then take a cycle path to Invergarry. Perfect I'll do that.
After picking up some supplies I gooses the new route and was treated to a fantastic run on quiet roads that had magnificent views and were just hilly enough to be interesting. At Gerlochy the swing bridge was just opening to let the 'Vic 32' through. Just found out that the Vic 32 is the last sea worthy 'Clyde Puffer'. Clyde Puffers were coastal steamers that used to ship freight all around coastal Scotland and the Islands.
After the excitement at Gerlochy I didn't think the day could possibly get any better. However, the 'cycle path' tip from random cyclist bloke turned out to be a Forestry Comission mountain bike trail/logging haul road!
Turning the front suspension back on I rattled over 10 miles of stoned and cinders cursing the random cycling man! It was great fun bur hard work and a little bit hairy at times going down hill. Once of the forestry road I could follow the Great Glen Way until I had to rejoin the A82 a couple of miles short of the hostel.
A great independent hostel called the Invergarry Lodge awaited. Beer food and bed after what was probably one of the best days cycling I have ever had. Stuff that day dreams are made of....
With a South Westerly behind me I flew into Fort William covering the 17 miles in about an hour and ten minutes. Pretty quick for me. Still no sign of the top of Ben Nevis. I've been here three bloody times now and not a sight!
On the way into Fort William I bumped into a cyclist who was on his way to the west coast to tour round and I was complaining about the A82. He suggested that I go left just after Fort William to Banavie then right at Banavie to Clunes. At Clunes I could then take a cycle path to Invergarry. Perfect I'll do that.
After picking up some supplies I gooses the new route and was treated to a fantastic run on quiet roads that had magnificent views and were just hilly enough to be interesting. At Gerlochy the swing bridge was just opening to let the 'Vic 32' through. Just found out that the Vic 32 is the last sea worthy 'Clyde Puffer'. Clyde Puffers were coastal steamers that used to ship freight all around coastal Scotland and the Islands.
After the excitement at Gerlochy I didn't think the day could possibly get any better. However, the 'cycle path' tip from random cyclist bloke turned out to be a Forestry Comission mountain bike trail/logging haul road!
Turning the front suspension back on I rattled over 10 miles of stoned and cinders cursing the random cycling man! It was great fun bur hard work and a little bit hairy at times going down hill. Once of the forestry road I could follow the Great Glen Way until I had to rejoin the A82 a couple of miles short of the hostel.
A great independent hostel called the Invergarry Lodge awaited. Beer food and bed after what was probably one of the best days cycling I have ever had. Stuff that day dreams are made of....
Day 24 - Kingshouse Hotel to Glen Coe
The wind had dropped and the rain was restricted to the occasional heavy shower. Alli's Taxi arrived early and we headed back up to the Kingshouse Hotel for operation bike recovery!
Whilst the wind had dropped it was still pretty wild and the wind was constant rather than gusting which made the bike easier to control. Having left the panniers back at the hostel there was less to catch the wind so whilst hard and a tiny bit scary the peddle back to the hostel took about an hour and half.
Between showers I wandered into Glen Coe village for a bite to eat and to get supplies for tonight. More pasta to bulk up for tomorrow. The first part of the ride tomorrow will be West and into the wind but once the corner is turned at Corran there should be a good South Westerly on my tail. That's the plan anyway!
Whilst the wind had dropped it was still pretty wild and the wind was constant rather than gusting which made the bike easier to control. Having left the panniers back at the hostel there was less to catch the wind so whilst hard and a tiny bit scary the peddle back to the hostel took about an hour and half.
Between showers I wandered into Glen Coe village for a bite to eat and to get supplies for tonight. More pasta to bulk up for tomorrow. The first part of the ride tomorrow will be West and into the wind but once the corner is turned at Corran there should be a good South Westerly on my tail. That's the plan anyway!
Day 23 - Crianlarich to Glen Coe
The weather wasn't great leaving Crianlarich but could cope with a bit of wind and rain. The road was good but quite busy and there was a steady climb up to Rannoch Moor which was the most exposed leg of the trip.
The navigation was very simple. Just following the A82 through Tyndrum to Glen Coe.
Steady rain built to heavy rain and the gentle tail wind developed into a side on gale from the West. A couple of times I had to get off and hang on to the bike to stop it blowing away and when I reached the Kings House Hotel I knew I had to call it a day.
No rooms at the inn but luckily there were a load of people heading to the youth hostel at Glen Coe so we shared a taxi. Tomorrow's task is to recover my bike from the laundry room of the hotel and get it back to the hostel. Lazy day at the hostel tomorrow and then start again on Thursday.
I managed to call all my hostels and B and B's and have pushed everything on a day.
The navigation was very simple. Just following the A82 through Tyndrum to Glen Coe.
Steady rain built to heavy rain and the gentle tail wind developed into a side on gale from the West. A couple of times I had to get off and hang on to the bike to stop it blowing away and when I reached the Kings House Hotel I knew I had to call it a day.
No rooms at the inn but luckily there were a load of people heading to the youth hostel at Glen Coe so we shared a taxi. Tomorrow's task is to recover my bike from the laundry room of the hotel and get it back to the hostel. Lazy day at the hostel tomorrow and then start again on Thursday.
I managed to call all my hostels and B and B's and have pushed everything on a day.
Tuesday 6 September 2011
Day 22 - Loch Lomond to Crianlarich
Easy navigation again today as the first part of the day was following the West Lomond cycle path along the loch edge as far as Tarbet and then joining the A82 to Crianlarich. Sun all the way and beautiful views of the loch and Ben Lomond.
It was a relatively east ride until the climb up towards Crianlarich. After checking in to the hostel I was getting some essentials from the local shop when I recognised an old chap who was in my room last night. He snored like snoring you have never heard before and absolutely stank. There was no way I could do another night in the same room as him. I ran past him up the hill to the hostel and pleaded with the girl on reception to put him in a room on his own. Luckily the hostel was quiet so she could move things around. I felt really mean but it took me all day to get the smell out of my nose.
It was a relatively east ride until the climb up towards Crianlarich. After checking in to the hostel I was getting some essentials from the local shop when I recognised an old chap who was in my room last night. He snored like snoring you have never heard before and absolutely stank. There was no way I could do another night in the same room as him. I ran past him up the hill to the hostel and pleaded with the girl on reception to put him in a room on his own. Luckily the hostel was quiet so she could move things around. I felt really mean but it took me all day to get the smell out of my nose.
Monday 5 September 2011
Day 21 - Glasgow to Loch Lomond
Route today was pretty easy following the cycle route N7 from the Scottish Exhibition Centre on the banks of the Clyde to Dumbarton. This was a great mix of raised a disused raised railway line and canal tow path. All of a sudden you find yourself in an old over grown station albeit just the platform being all that is left.
Once I got to Dumbarton I headed on the A814 to Helensburgh. I found my way to the Glasgow School of Art building by McIntosh the day before and, fully in line with my run of luck, it was covered in scaffolding. Today was a chance to re-dress this by visiting Hill House. The McIntosh house built for WW Blackie the publishing magnate.
Perched on the slopes of a hill overlooking Helensburgh and the Clyde the house is modest but one of the finest examples of domestic Architecture. The pebble dashed exterior appears incongruous from it's association with the later exploitation of this finish on a multitude of suburban bungaloids up and down the land. Copious treatise have been written about this house and I had poured over them as a student. This detour more than made up for the scaffolded School of Art building.
To end the day I was booked into the youth hostel on the shores of Loch Lomond so I cut across from Heleneburgh to Duck Bay and was treated to a night in another castle. Built in 1910 it is a gloriously ostentatious take on the traditional baronial Scottish castle. Sumptuous inside with attendant stags heads and tartan carpets the castle was a gift from the USAF as far as I could make out. Converted into a hostel with funds from the American Trades Union Congress. Thank you very much!
Once I got to Dumbarton I headed on the A814 to Helensburgh. I found my way to the Glasgow School of Art building by McIntosh the day before and, fully in line with my run of luck, it was covered in scaffolding. Today was a chance to re-dress this by visiting Hill House. The McIntosh house built for WW Blackie the publishing magnate.
Perched on the slopes of a hill overlooking Helensburgh and the Clyde the house is modest but one of the finest examples of domestic Architecture. The pebble dashed exterior appears incongruous from it's association with the later exploitation of this finish on a multitude of suburban bungaloids up and down the land. Copious treatise have been written about this house and I had poured over them as a student. This detour more than made up for the scaffolded School of Art building.
To end the day I was booked into the youth hostel on the shores of Loch Lomond so I cut across from Heleneburgh to Duck Bay and was treated to a night in another castle. Built in 1910 it is a gloriously ostentatious take on the traditional baronial Scottish castle. Sumptuous inside with attendant stags heads and tartan carpets the castle was a gift from the USAF as far as I could make out. Converted into a hostel with funds from the American Trades Union Congress. Thank you very much!
Saturday 3 September 2011
Day 20 - Abington to Glasgow
Very straightforward navigation again as I was following the N74 cycle route through:
Happendon
Lesmahagow
Blackwood
Hamilton
Cambuslang
Dalmarnock
Then into the city centre. I wasn't looking forward to the ride through the city centre as I'd got so used to pretty much clear roads over the last few days. Together with the fact that previous experience in towns in North Wales had been pretty poor!
Hats off to the drivers of Glasgow as everyone kept their distance and I didn't get cut up once. Not a single horn blast and no verbal abuse. All in all it was a great ride. The route in was pretty quiet being a Saturday and not many people about. Celtic were either not playing or playing away maybe.
As soon as I hit the city centre it was heaving and after having been cycling through pretty sparsely populated areas of the country Glasgow was a real shock!
Supper at the hostel then a stroll into town to sample the night life before another early night. Forty odd miles today so feeling it a bit this afternoon.
Happendon
Lesmahagow
Blackwood
Hamilton
Cambuslang
Dalmarnock
Then into the city centre. I wasn't looking forward to the ride through the city centre as I'd got so used to pretty much clear roads over the last few days. Together with the fact that previous experience in towns in North Wales had been pretty poor!
Hats off to the drivers of Glasgow as everyone kept their distance and I didn't get cut up once. Not a single horn blast and no verbal abuse. All in all it was a great ride. The route in was pretty quiet being a Saturday and not many people about. Celtic were either not playing or playing away maybe.
As soon as I hit the city centre it was heaving and after having been cycling through pretty sparsely populated areas of the country Glasgow was a real shock!
Supper at the hostel then a stroll into town to sample the night life before another early night. Forty odd miles today so feeling it a bit this afternoon.
Friday 2 September 2011
Day 19 - Lockerbie to Abington
Not a great deal to report today as the route was just following the cycle route N74 from Lockerbie to Abington. The village is tiny with a hotel and a shop. That's about it. The road and cycle route were pretty good so my 35 miles was done by quarter to two. Afternoon spent eating, dozing and planning the route through the Highlands.
Carbidale Castle youth hostel is closed! Boo! However, I got a tip from a cyclist I met at Clun Mill hostel and there is a sleeper carriage parked at Rogart station (a working station) and this is a hostel. I'm booked there instead. The other great bonus was getting into the Crask Inn. Probably one of the remotest places I'll be staying. Very excited about that.
40 miles in to Glasgow tommorow so need to get my head down!
Carbidale Castle youth hostel is closed! Boo! However, I got a tip from a cyclist I met at Clun Mill hostel and there is a sleeper carriage parked at Rogart station (a working station) and this is a hostel. I'm booked there instead. The other great bonus was getting into the Crask Inn. Probably one of the remotest places I'll be staying. Very excited about that.
40 miles in to Glasgow tommorow so need to get my head down!
Thursday 1 September 2011
Day 18 - Carlisle to Lockerbie
It was high time that I had a rest day today so only 25 mikes on the clock. Uber simple routing for the next few days.
North out of Carlisle on the A7.
Take a left towards Parkhouse.
Follow cycle route N74 which runs alongside the M74 on the minor roads right into Glasgow. Being relatively flat the cycling was good and had a little bit of sun today.
Arriving at Gretna was very excited to be crossing the border into Scotland. Must be nearly there! I got my photo taken by another End to Ender. They had had taken 6 days! Ouch!!
Arriving early it was time to do something other than washing, route planning or eating. I visited the Lockerbie memorial garden which felt quite pertinent with all the events in Libya. At the far end of the Lockerbie cemetery there is a modest but immaculately kept garden with a list of all those who died. Individual families have been allowed to mount there own stones as has Pan Am.
Having heard all about this on the news many years ago it was moving to read the personal inscriptions to those who had been lost. Whole families and children as young as two months. Being so close to Christmas the excitement about seeing the relative that was on that flight would have been huge. Then to have them taken away must have been so cruel.
North out of Carlisle on the A7.
Take a left towards Parkhouse.
Follow cycle route N74 which runs alongside the M74 on the minor roads right into Glasgow. Being relatively flat the cycling was good and had a little bit of sun today.
Arriving at Gretna was very excited to be crossing the border into Scotland. Must be nearly there! I got my photo taken by another End to Ender. They had had taken 6 days! Ouch!!
Arriving early it was time to do something other than washing, route planning or eating. I visited the Lockerbie memorial garden which felt quite pertinent with all the events in Libya. At the far end of the Lockerbie cemetery there is a modest but immaculately kept garden with a list of all those who died. Individual families have been allowed to mount there own stones as has Pan Am.
Having heard all about this on the news many years ago it was moving to read the personal inscriptions to those who had been lost. Whole families and children as young as two months. Being so close to Christmas the excitement about seeing the relative that was on that flight would have been huge. Then to have them taken away must have been so cruel.
Day 17 - Windermere to Carlisle
Well the days and the miles are stacking up now and I'm into the 'borders' region. Lots of Roman roads round here. They must have been built to supply the forts along Hadrians Wall and Carlisle must have been one of the northern most towns of the Holy Roman Empire. Well enough about ancient history what about my backside, knees and elbow.....,I hear you ask. Since you mention it they are OK, surprisingly OK and really painful respectively.
Route today was:
Windermere
Straight into the awesome climb up and over the Kirkstone Pass. Jon Skipper, I would like to thank you from the bottom of my bottom for that suggestion. Ouch! But well worth it.
Down hill to Patterdale......feet off the pedals, legs out.....weeee! SHEEP! Brakes!
Left to Dockray. Just before the turn to Dockray I had a really clear view along Ullswater which was beautifully flat and calm. In the distance was the front on silhouette of a WW2 fighter about 200 meters off the water and the amazing sound of it's engine. I obviously stopped as it banked and climbed above me to clear Helvelyn. It had USAF insignia and I'm pretty sure it was a Mustang. Very excited!
Carry on up hill then right to Matterdale.
Cross the A66 to Greystoke.
Then back roads to Carlisle through:
Blencow
Unthank
Hutton End
Low Braithwaite
Stoneraise
Durdar then Carlisle.
I stopped a little breather along the road and was treated to a couple of fast jets playing tag overhead but the best of all was a low flying (it felt like I could see the rivets) military transport plane. It flew right overhead at a few hundred meters.
The less said about the YHA at Carlisle the better. Save to say.....give it a miss!
Route today was:
Windermere
Straight into the awesome climb up and over the Kirkstone Pass. Jon Skipper, I would like to thank you from the bottom of my bottom for that suggestion. Ouch! But well worth it.
Down hill to Patterdale......feet off the pedals, legs out.....weeee! SHEEP! Brakes!
Left to Dockray. Just before the turn to Dockray I had a really clear view along Ullswater which was beautifully flat and calm. In the distance was the front on silhouette of a WW2 fighter about 200 meters off the water and the amazing sound of it's engine. I obviously stopped as it banked and climbed above me to clear Helvelyn. It had USAF insignia and I'm pretty sure it was a Mustang. Very excited!
Carry on up hill then right to Matterdale.
Cross the A66 to Greystoke.
Then back roads to Carlisle through:
Blencow
Unthank
Hutton End
Low Braithwaite
Stoneraise
Durdar then Carlisle.
I stopped a little breather along the road and was treated to a couple of fast jets playing tag overhead but the best of all was a low flying (it felt like I could see the rivets) military transport plane. It flew right overhead at a few hundred meters.
The less said about the YHA at Carlisle the better. Save to say.....give it a miss!
Day 16 - Slaidburn to Windermere
The route is pretty straightforward so we'll get that out of the way. The day was far from straight forward:
Slaidburn
High Bentham
Low Bentham
Right turn to Wrayton
Straight over to Kirkby Londsdsle
A590 to Kendal
A591 to Windermere
Setting off from Slaidburn I knew there was a climb but the forest of Bowland is on a serious hill. The weather was against me too with a vicious head wind and driving rain. I had pretty much all my layers on and my waterproofs and I was still cold. Stopping to concede that I needed gloves and rummaging in the pocket only to find two right hand gloves. No matter how I tried to wear the right hand glove on my left I couldn't operate the brake so had only mits on. In the end it took two and a half hours to go 11 miles.
After a restorative bacon butty in High Bentham there were still 28 miles to go and it was one o'clock. This was going to be a long day for me.
The rest of the day was a hard slog in icy rain and with no views of the Lakeland fells I just had to peddle. The only thing that kept me going over the last few miles was the thought of a hot shower and dinner at the hostel. Of course when I arrived there had been a power cut all day. No food and no shower. After losing my temper with the chap on reception I walked back down the hill to the pub at the bottom. I must have absolutely stunk!
After a long drag back up the hill full of burger and Blue Bird ale I apologised, showered and went to bed!
Wednesday 31 August 2011
Day 15 - Wigan to Slaidburn
There seems to be something of a pattern developing that the mornings are generally a good run and the afternoon are a bit of a challenge. Today was no exception.
The bonus for this afternoon was meeting Julia and Gordon who cycled with me for a short while and have me directions to Dunsop Bridge which is the geographical centre of the UK. BT put a phone box right on the spot!
Whilst cycling for the last two days I realised how lucky I am to have been able to undertake this trip. Having passed so many areas over the last couple of days where the people are living hand to mouth and only just getting by it feels very self indulgent to be spending as much money as I have done. The value of my bike alone would keep a family going for a good few weeks.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
The bonus for this afternoon was meeting Julia and Gordon who cycled with me for a short while and have me directions to Dunsop Bridge which is the geographical centre of the UK. BT put a phone box right on the spot!
Whilst cycling for the last two days I realised how lucky I am to have been able to undertake this trip. Having passed so many areas over the last couple of days where the people are living hand to mouth and only just getting by it feels very self indulgent to be spending as much money as I have done. The value of my bike alone would keep a family going for a good few weeks.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Tuesday 30 August 2011
Day 14 - Chester to Wigan
Whilst the CTC routes are picturesque and take in all the best sights, they can be a real pain to navigate so I swapped the CTC route through the Delamete Forest for the A56 which pretty much goes all the way. Today was going to be the first of a two day slog through the industrial heartland of the North West and the day lived up to it pretty well.
The route was easy to follow and the traffic was ok. Quite a lot was on segregate cycle routes! Yippee! The head wind Warrington and Wigan was shocking. Really hope it dies down for tomorrow.
Anyway. Not much to say about today other than hard work. Route is as follows:
A56 to Hoole
Helsby
Frodsham
Sutton Weaver
Preston Brook
Warrington
Winwick
Right along A573
Goldborne
Abram
Wigan
What I would say about today is how friendly everyone is. You simply can't cycle or walk along the road without someone saying hello. It's great. I've had to explain the End to End about 6 times today. Good stuff!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
The route was easy to follow and the traffic was ok. Quite a lot was on segregate cycle routes! Yippee! The head wind Warrington and Wigan was shocking. Really hope it dies down for tomorrow.
Anyway. Not much to say about today other than hard work. Route is as follows:
A56 to Hoole
Helsby
Frodsham
Sutton Weaver
Preston Brook
Warrington
Winwick
Right along A573
Goldborne
Abram
Wigan
What I would say about today is how friendly everyone is. You simply can't cycle or walk along the road without someone saying hello. It's great. I've had to explain the End to End about 6 times today. Good stuff!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Day 13 - Oswestry to Wrexham
Might be quite short as not much on interest on the way.
Route:
Oswestry
Pentre Pant
Weston Rhyn
Chirk Bank
Chirk
Pentre
Newbridge
Ruabon
Erdigg
Wrexham
I stopped in Wrexham to re-fuel and this was the first place that I heard Welsh being spoken. I was hoping to hear a bit more as I wove my way back and forth across the border. Had to be a little careful so people didn't think I was a weirdo hanging around listening to them chatting. From what I could here it is a lovely language with rhythm and musicality.
Driving in and out of Wrexham was interesting as there seemed to be an awful lot of lads in suped up cars who didn't like cyclists. This is the first place where I have been shouted at for simply cycling along and minding my own business. Got called the c word twice in about half a mile!
Anyway, quite glad to be on my way to:
Gresford
Rossett
Belgrave
Finally Chester
The city looks great and need to come back for a proper look around. The racecourse is pretty much in the city centre which would be very cool to go to on race day.
Route:
Oswestry
Pentre Pant
Weston Rhyn
Chirk Bank
Chirk
Pentre
Newbridge
Ruabon
Erdigg
Wrexham
I stopped in Wrexham to re-fuel and this was the first place that I heard Welsh being spoken. I was hoping to hear a bit more as I wove my way back and forth across the border. Had to be a little careful so people didn't think I was a weirdo hanging around listening to them chatting. From what I could here it is a lovely language with rhythm and musicality.
Driving in and out of Wrexham was interesting as there seemed to be an awful lot of lads in suped up cars who didn't like cyclists. This is the first place where I have been shouted at for simply cycling along and minding my own business. Got called the c word twice in about half a mile!
Anyway, quite glad to be on my way to:
Gresford
Rossett
Belgrave
Finally Chester
The city looks great and need to come back for a proper look around. The racecourse is pretty much in the city centre which would be very cool to go to on race day.
Friday 26 August 2011
Day 12 - Clun to Oswestry
This day is a bit of a detour due to the folk festival being on at Shrewsbury. I got a bit tied up with the traction engines and vintage lorries all trundling along the road to Shrewsbury. Whilst it was great to see all the old vehicles it wasn't great for my lungs as the old PM10 count would have been through the roof . PM10 refers to the particle size of diesel and coal engine smuts that clog up cyclists lungs!!
The route is as follows:
Clun
A488 to Bishops Castle
Lydham
Left at Lydham to Churchstoke
Right at Churchstoke
Chirbury
Kingswood
Fron
Welshpool (re-fueling stop)
I then tried to go north up the A483 which was awful. A narrow road with heavy traffic and the worst drivers so far. I can't say strongly enough how bad the drivers were on the stretch of the A483 north of Welshpool. I have never encountered so many people who were prepared to risk the life of a cyclist just so that they didn't have to slow down. A pox on you all!
OK rant over. As soon as I could I left the A483 at Llanymynech and followed the blissfully quiet back roads to:
Bridge
Morton
Aston
Then I joined the A5 and headed to the Travelodge from there. I got a good deal!
I was asked in the pub last night if I had a sense of progress yet. Probably the thing that I have noticed and enjoyed most is the change in the accent. Whilst only doing 30 or so miles a day there is still a subtle change each day. In and out of Wales today was funny as the accent got very confused. Tonight there is a touch of Scouse. It feels like I'm really getting to the North at last!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
The route is as follows:
Clun
A488 to Bishops Castle
Lydham
Left at Lydham to Churchstoke
Right at Churchstoke
Chirbury
Kingswood
Fron
Welshpool (re-fueling stop)
I then tried to go north up the A483 which was awful. A narrow road with heavy traffic and the worst drivers so far. I can't say strongly enough how bad the drivers were on the stretch of the A483 north of Welshpool. I have never encountered so many people who were prepared to risk the life of a cyclist just so that they didn't have to slow down. A pox on you all!
OK rant over. As soon as I could I left the A483 at Llanymynech and followed the blissfully quiet back roads to:
Bridge
Morton
Aston
Then I joined the A5 and headed to the Travelodge from there. I got a good deal!
I was asked in the pub last night if I had a sense of progress yet. Probably the thing that I have noticed and enjoyed most is the change in the accent. Whilst only doing 30 or so miles a day there is still a subtle change each day. In and out of Wales today was funny as the accent got very confused. Tonight there is a touch of Scouse. It feels like I'm really getting to the North at last!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Thursday 25 August 2011
Day 11 - Leominster to Clun
After the long day yesterday it was time for a morning off and with only 23 miles to do I didn't need to leave until after lunch. Barbara, the hostel warden did both the bookings at Leominster and Clun hostels so knew where I was going today. I'm not quite sure how but I ended up with the week's booking sheets for the Clun hostel as the fax had broken down. As the fax at Clun had broken down I also ended up with the spare part for the fax machine in my pannier! It felt like being sworn in as a deputy Marshall in the wild west, acting as a courier for the YHA.
So the light route was as follows:
Leominster
Eyton
Kingdland
Lugg Green
Mortimer's Cross
Wigmore
Leintwardine
Marlow
Hoptonheath
Twitchen
Purslow
Clunton
Clun
Although a light day, my legs felt like lead and there was still a fair bit of climbing. With a strong head wind it took a good few hours to get to Clun. The hostel is in an old mill in a tiny Shropshire village. No mobile signal and no cellular data. Hence the late posting of the blog .
An added bonus was that the local pub was having a 'folk night' and one of the guys playing was staying at the hostel. Obviously had to go :-)
Just found broadband at the pub. There are no other signals here. Very remote!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
So the light route was as follows:
Leominster
Eyton
Kingdland
Lugg Green
Mortimer's Cross
Wigmore
Leintwardine
Marlow
Hoptonheath
Twitchen
Purslow
Clunton
Clun
Although a light day, my legs felt like lead and there was still a fair bit of climbing. With a strong head wind it took a good few hours to get to Clun. The hostel is in an old mill in a tiny Shropshire village. No mobile signal and no cellular data. Hence the late posting of the blog .
An added bonus was that the local pub was having a 'folk night' and one of the guys playing was staying at the hostel. Obviously had to go :-)
Just found broadband at the pub. There are no other signals here. Very remote!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Wednesday 24 August 2011
Day 10 - St Briavels to Leominster (Pronounced Lemster)
Well I posted a new Personal Best of 47 miles today and it certainly wasn't on the flat. The route I took is referred to as "The Highroad" in the CTC LEJOG guide. Maybe that explains it! So the route was as follows:
St Briavels
Coleford
English Bicknor
Stowfield
Kerne Bridge
Walford
Tudorville
Brampton Abotts
Hole in the Wall
Brockhampton
Fownhope
Modiford
Hereford
Shelwick
Sutton St Nicholas
Bodenham
Leominster
What a day. In the morning it was so hot I had to stop and sit in the shade. Then in the afternoon I had head winds and thunderstorms. There was a detour into Hereford for tea and sandwiches to revive me.
A passing cyclist stopped for a chat and told me the best route from Hereford to Leominster and it was perfect. The heavens opened just as I got to Leominster and was soaked by the time I got there. The wardens here are amazing and washed and tumbled dried all my kit this evening. So not only am I dry but smell much better too.!
It was by far the hardest day both in terms of distance and the number of hills!! Easy morning tomorrow. I need to find somewhere to stay on Saturday night. Bank Holiday weekend.....I'll be lucky!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
St Briavels
Coleford
English Bicknor
Stowfield
Kerne Bridge
Walford
Tudorville
Brampton Abotts
Hole in the Wall
Brockhampton
Fownhope
Modiford
Hereford
Shelwick
Sutton St Nicholas
Bodenham
Leominster
What a day. In the morning it was so hot I had to stop and sit in the shade. Then in the afternoon I had head winds and thunderstorms. There was a detour into Hereford for tea and sandwiches to revive me.
A passing cyclist stopped for a chat and told me the best route from Hereford to Leominster and it was perfect. The heavens opened just as I got to Leominster and was soaked by the time I got there. The wardens here are amazing and washed and tumbled dried all my kit this evening. So not only am I dry but smell much better too.!
It was by far the hardest day both in terms of distance and the number of hills!! Easy morning tomorrow. I need to find somewhere to stay on Saturday night. Bank Holiday weekend.....I'll be lucky!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Tuesday 23 August 2011
Day 9 - Bristol to St Briavels
This might be short as the internet cuts in and out this being a remote area of rural Gloucestershire. Not much in the way of phone signal either. No pics I'm afraid either but I'll see if Facebook will accept them.
So from the B and B it was a dull peddle along A38 to the outskirts of Bristol. What looked easy on the map proved to be a horror of a little hill up to the Clifton Suspension bridge. Well worth the work as the bridge is a fine piece of Brunel's engineering.
I wiggled through the residential areas of Bristol following the A488 I think. Anyway it crossed the M5 at junction 17 and I continued on the back roads toward the village of Aust to pick up the cycle path across the Severn Bridge. This is a great bridge standing out for miles as it is painted white.
I stopped in the middle of the bridge and it was only then that I realised that the bridge moved so much with the wind and traffic. Quite scary :-) Finishing off the bridge I followed the A466 into Chepstow.
In Chepstow I decided to carry out some bike repairs myself as the back brake was very loose. Of course I made it worse so I went to Chepstow's only bike shop with my tail between my legs and asked them to fix it which they did in 45 minutes!!
This is my plug for a great bike shop who really looked after me. Pay them a visit:
http://www.559bikes.com/
After that headed out of Chepstow on the A48 towards Gloucester and then took the left hand turn off the A48 to St Briavels. This proved to be 7 miles of pretty hard climbing. So much for it being easy once over the Severn!
Anyway the Youth Hostel is a pukka castle and I'm in the East tower. Hope its not haunted!!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
So from the B and B it was a dull peddle along A38 to the outskirts of Bristol. What looked easy on the map proved to be a horror of a little hill up to the Clifton Suspension bridge. Well worth the work as the bridge is a fine piece of Brunel's engineering.
I wiggled through the residential areas of Bristol following the A488 I think. Anyway it crossed the M5 at junction 17 and I continued on the back roads toward the village of Aust to pick up the cycle path across the Severn Bridge. This is a great bridge standing out for miles as it is painted white.
I stopped in the middle of the bridge and it was only then that I realised that the bridge moved so much with the wind and traffic. Quite scary :-) Finishing off the bridge I followed the A466 into Chepstow.
In Chepstow I decided to carry out some bike repairs myself as the back brake was very loose. Of course I made it worse so I went to Chepstow's only bike shop with my tail between my legs and asked them to fix it which they did in 45 minutes!!
This is my plug for a great bike shop who really looked after me. Pay them a visit:
http://www.559bikes.com/
After that headed out of Chepstow on the A48 towards Gloucester and then took the left hand turn off the A48 to St Briavels. This proved to be 7 miles of pretty hard climbing. So much for it being easy once over the Severn!
Anyway the Youth Hostel is a pukka castle and I'm in the East tower. Hope its not haunted!!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Monday 22 August 2011
Day 8 - Street to Bristol
Phew! What a scorcha! Hottest day of the trip so far and after a little mist it was sun all the way.
Up early and off by 9. I didn't have any supplies so had breakfast at the Wetherspoons in Street. As I was tucking into porridge everyone else was tucking in to Abbot Ale!
Route for the day:
Leaving Street and headed towards Glastonbury but turned off to head towards Meare then Westhay followed by Wedmore. This was a beautiful ride across the Avalon Marshes before popping up to the Isle of Wedmore. Down hill then up again into Cheddar. This is a strange place that time forgot.
Jon Skipper recommended the detour up and through Cheddar Gorge and I thank you from the bottom of my bottom for that! :-) it was gorgeous! Hard on the legs but worth it.
Hats off to the National Trust who appear to have turned what could have been a beautiful geological feature into a tourist hell hole!
From the gorge it was back roads all the way across and up and down the Mendip Hills. A real treat in the August sunshine. After the gorge I took a left fork then left turn to Charterhouse left again onto B3134 to Burrington. Straight across until I hit the A38 which was then a horrible slog up hill mostly with lots of traffic to the B and B. It's on the A38 at Barrow Common.
Obviously stopped to watch a couple of planes take off from Bristol airport! Mmm! Planes :-)
Lots of climbing but a lovely day to be out on the bike. About 33 miles today so must be up to about 240 miles now.
Up early and off by 9. I didn't have any supplies so had breakfast at the Wetherspoons in Street. As I was tucking into porridge everyone else was tucking in to Abbot Ale!
Route for the day:
Leaving Street and headed towards Glastonbury but turned off to head towards Meare then Westhay followed by Wedmore. This was a beautiful ride across the Avalon Marshes before popping up to the Isle of Wedmore. Down hill then up again into Cheddar. This is a strange place that time forgot.
Jon Skipper recommended the detour up and through Cheddar Gorge and I thank you from the bottom of my bottom for that! :-) it was gorgeous! Hard on the legs but worth it.
Hats off to the National Trust who appear to have turned what could have been a beautiful geological feature into a tourist hell hole!
From the gorge it was back roads all the way across and up and down the Mendip Hills. A real treat in the August sunshine. After the gorge I took a left fork then left turn to Charterhouse left again onto B3134 to Burrington. Straight across until I hit the A38 which was then a horrible slog up hill mostly with lots of traffic to the B and B. It's on the A38 at Barrow Common.
Obviously stopped to watch a couple of planes take off from Bristol airport! Mmm! Planes :-)
Lots of climbing but a lovely day to be out on the bike. About 33 miles today so must be up to about 240 miles now.
Day 7 - Chard to Street
Bit late posting today. Only just got reminded to do it because a group of End to Enders who were currently doing it were having a loud discussion outside the dorm with a bloke who had done it a while ago and he had done it faster, harder and worst weather! Boring gits!! I was just about to tell them to be quiet in no uncertain terms when someone from another dorm beat me to it!
Just a short one with the route:
Chard,New England, Dowlish Ford, Kingstone, Shepton Beauchamp, East Lambrook, Coat, Stapleton, Long Sutton, Sommerton and Street.
Weather was great and had a lively rude through the back lanes. Mire of the same tomorrow and the mighty Cheddar Gorge.
Just a short one with the route:
Chard,New England, Dowlish Ford, Kingstone, Shepton Beauchamp, East Lambrook, Coat, Stapleton, Long Sutton, Sommerton and Street.
Weather was great and had a lively rude through the back lanes. Mire of the same tomorrow and the mighty Cheddar Gorge.
Saturday 20 August 2011
Day 6 - Exeter to Chard
The first proper rain of the trip and I put off leaving for as long as possible in the hope that the weather would clear up! Some hope. It took about an hour to work my way out of Exeter by a contorted route of cycle paths and pavements but found a signed cycle route to Honiton.
So for the route followers I have just listed the place names as the roads were too small for numbers:
Exeter, Sowton, Clyst Honiton, Fairmile, Fenny Bridges, Weston Honiton, Cotleigh, Stockland, Wambrook and Chard.
I was completely soaked within 10 minutes and whilst the road to Honiton was mercifully flat the head wind and driving rain were a pain. Fortification was required so I squelched round Honiton taking on food and drink when the rain stopped and the sun came out. A quick map check and the route was changed from a pootle along the A303 before cutting across to Chard. Why not take the back roads? The back roads cut across the Black Down Hills. The road ran at right angles to the ridges and valleys of them there hills and the 2 hours pedaling between Honiton and Chard whilst beautiful was some of the hardest pedaling so far. I'd you've got an OS of the area check out the contours!
Once checked into the B and B the routine of stretching, showering with the kit on to wash it, shuffling in to town for good, shuffling back, sleeping and then shuffling back into town for more food took up the rest of another great day.
An unexpected cost on the trip is food. My intake today was:
Breakfast:
Muesli.
Scrambled egg and hash browns.
Toast and marmalade.
Coffee.
On the bike:
Banana.
Cereal bar.
Peanuts and raisins.
Elevensies:
Cheese sandwich.
Hot chocolate.
On the bike:
Banana.
Cereal bar.
Jelly snakes - for moral in the rain!
Lunch (about 3pm after ride):
Tuna sandwich.
Apple juice.
Dinner:
Pint of beer.
Steak, chips and salad.
Spotted dick and custard.
Late snack:
Chocolate peanuts and raisins.
I'm repeating this pretty much every day but despite all that I'm looking pretty lean and starting to develop the slightly pinched features of a Tour cyclist!
Confirmation of arrival in Chard:
A couple of friends that I met on the way:
So for the route followers I have just listed the place names as the roads were too small for numbers:
Exeter, Sowton, Clyst Honiton, Fairmile, Fenny Bridges, Weston Honiton, Cotleigh, Stockland, Wambrook and Chard.
I was completely soaked within 10 minutes and whilst the road to Honiton was mercifully flat the head wind and driving rain were a pain. Fortification was required so I squelched round Honiton taking on food and drink when the rain stopped and the sun came out. A quick map check and the route was changed from a pootle along the A303 before cutting across to Chard. Why not take the back roads? The back roads cut across the Black Down Hills. The road ran at right angles to the ridges and valleys of them there hills and the 2 hours pedaling between Honiton and Chard whilst beautiful was some of the hardest pedaling so far. I'd you've got an OS of the area check out the contours!
Once checked into the B and B the routine of stretching, showering with the kit on to wash it, shuffling in to town for good, shuffling back, sleeping and then shuffling back into town for more food took up the rest of another great day.
An unexpected cost on the trip is food. My intake today was:
Breakfast:
Muesli.
Scrambled egg and hash browns.
Toast and marmalade.
Coffee.
On the bike:
Banana.
Cereal bar.
Peanuts and raisins.
Elevensies:
Cheese sandwich.
Hot chocolate.
On the bike:
Banana.
Cereal bar.
Jelly snakes - for moral in the rain!
Lunch (about 3pm after ride):
Tuna sandwich.
Apple juice.
Dinner:
Pint of beer.
Steak, chips and salad.
Spotted dick and custard.
Late snack:
Chocolate peanuts and raisins.
I'm repeating this pretty much every day but despite all that I'm looking pretty lean and starting to develop the slightly pinched features of a Tour cyclist!
Confirmation of arrival in Chard:
A couple of friends that I met on the way:
Friday 19 August 2011
Day 5 - Gooseford to Exeter
After a great breakfast and having been "adopted" by the other guests at the B and B it was time to saddle up for another day in the Devon hills. Having found out that the B and B owner, Mary, rode both horses and bikes round the back lanes I thought I could probably trust her route suggestion. I was rewarded with a fantastic run through the lanes of the northern fringe of Dartmoor. Route as follows:
Gooseford to Crockenwell, Cheriton Bishop, Tedburn St Mary then a choice. A fork in the road and lanes called Five Mile Hill or Six Mile Hill. In for a penny....Six Mile it is. This took me furthest away from the A30 which was the main aim of the day but had the most punishing hills so far. Mercifully short but brutally steep. This series of hills took me into Exeter.
Devon hedges are something to behold. At points they were towering at least 8 feet above my head and solid vegetation. Year on year of careful laying in and with a solid burm at the centre. They are SOLID! Having just reached the top of a crippling hill I was face to face with a double slurry tanker. The nearest passing place was at the bottom of the hill and I wasn't going back. There was a bike shaped kink in the hedge so, panniers off, bike rammed into hedge. Ollie rammed into hedge the lorry passed with about 2 inches clearance.
Policy updates
None today.
Pain update
All pain appears to be at stable and tolerable levels.
A huge curry and pint have been downed at the Exeter YHA. I need a bit of a route planning bash tonight before bed and a 7.30 call tomorrow to start carb loading!
I'll post a couple of pics on Facebook as the 3G won't cope with them on the blog.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Gooseford to Crockenwell, Cheriton Bishop, Tedburn St Mary then a choice. A fork in the road and lanes called Five Mile Hill or Six Mile Hill. In for a penny....Six Mile it is. This took me furthest away from the A30 which was the main aim of the day but had the most punishing hills so far. Mercifully short but brutally steep. This series of hills took me into Exeter.
Devon hedges are something to behold. At points they were towering at least 8 feet above my head and solid vegetation. Year on year of careful laying in and with a solid burm at the centre. They are SOLID! Having just reached the top of a crippling hill I was face to face with a double slurry tanker. The nearest passing place was at the bottom of the hill and I wasn't going back. There was a bike shaped kink in the hedge so, panniers off, bike rammed into hedge. Ollie rammed into hedge the lorry passed with about 2 inches clearance.
Policy updates
None today.
Pain update
All pain appears to be at stable and tolerable levels.
A huge curry and pint have been downed at the Exeter YHA. I need a bit of a route planning bash tonight before bed and a 7.30 call tomorrow to start carb loading!
I'll post a couple of pics on Facebook as the 3G won't cope with them on the blog.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Thursday 18 August 2011
Day 4 - Launceston to Gooseford
It was raining this morning which is why I didn't get underway until about quarter to ten this morning. I found myself faffing which was all to avoid the inevitable departure in the cold rain. The chap on reception this morning was a keen cyclist so obviously we had to have a good half hour chat about the Tour de France and LEJOG.
Before I forget, there were no policy changes today.
Pain update
Early soreness in legs persisting for the morning but lessening towards end of ride. Knee pain rose unexpectedly but ok after a rest. Elbow continues to be problematic and now deferring to the right shoulder. Additional stretches should take of that.
Route today
Joining A30 3 miles South West of Launceston and continuing to the Liftdondown junction. Old A30 through Liftondown, Lewdown towards Sourton. Rejoin the A30 at Sourton. Take back roads off A30 towards Belstone then take road to Sticklepath and finally Gooseford.
The time spent on the A30 first thing was horrible. Every lorry passing left me covered in oily, gritty water from tip to toe. Soon after Launceston I left Cornwall and hit Devon. Photographic evidence below :-)
A couple of miles after Launceston I could get off and on to the old A30 which was much quieter and had lovely views of the moors. However, it was almost as hilly as yesterday and it was hard going with a head wind most of the way.
I got to mid day and had to rejoin the A30 up on Dartmoor and was in need of food. Egg and bacon buttie at the Sourton services and I was good to go. Just as I was re-mounting a black 3 door VW parked next to me with Ed Dalton inside. Bowling up to the car shouting "Hi Ed great to see you" through the closed window I realised too late it wasn't him! Oh look my shoe lace needs doing up.
Nasty hilly bit on the A30 gave way quickly to a great few miles on back roads in the Dartmoor National Park. Awesome.
As my reward look what I got when I got when I got to the B and B :-)
So I'm sitting in bed writing this having had a lovely roast pork supper here with all the other guests. What a great evening. If you need a B and B down here this is great:
www.gooseford-farm.co.uk
Before I forget, there were no policy changes today.
Pain update
Early soreness in legs persisting for the morning but lessening towards end of ride. Knee pain rose unexpectedly but ok after a rest. Elbow continues to be problematic and now deferring to the right shoulder. Additional stretches should take of that.
Route today
Joining A30 3 miles South West of Launceston and continuing to the Liftdondown junction. Old A30 through Liftondown, Lewdown towards Sourton. Rejoin the A30 at Sourton. Take back roads off A30 towards Belstone then take road to Sticklepath and finally Gooseford.
The time spent on the A30 first thing was horrible. Every lorry passing left me covered in oily, gritty water from tip to toe. Soon after Launceston I left Cornwall and hit Devon. Photographic evidence below :-)
A couple of miles after Launceston I could get off and on to the old A30 which was much quieter and had lovely views of the moors. However, it was almost as hilly as yesterday and it was hard going with a head wind most of the way.
I got to mid day and had to rejoin the A30 up on Dartmoor and was in need of food. Egg and bacon buttie at the Sourton services and I was good to go. Just as I was re-mounting a black 3 door VW parked next to me with Ed Dalton inside. Bowling up to the car shouting "Hi Ed great to see you" through the closed window I realised too late it wasn't him! Oh look my shoe lace needs doing up.
Nasty hilly bit on the A30 gave way quickly to a great few miles on back roads in the Dartmoor National Park. Awesome.
As my reward look what I got when I got when I got to the B and B :-)
So I'm sitting in bed writing this having had a lovely roast pork supper here with all the other guests. What a great evening. If you need a B and B down here this is great:
www.gooseford-farm.co.uk
Wednesday 17 August 2011
Day 3 - S'Norstle to Launceston
There will be no more Runkeeper updates as it's eating my battery and I need the map app for navigation. So route will be updated each day.
Today's route was from St Austell following the A391 to Bodmin. With some side tracks to keep off the main road a bit. Then a long run along the A30 from Bodmin to just before Launceston.
Have been musing this morning about adding some regular updates and first of these will be pain:
Pain
General leg pain reducing early. Bottom pain rising expected high later. Anticipated knee pain remains low thanks to streeeettttcchhingggg! Un-expected elbow pain rising sharply.
While cycling, "policies" are to be implemented to make the way easier or to deal with certain repetitive situations. Policy updates will be filed as required:
Policy update
1. A 'wave at courteous' lorry drivers policy was implemented and immediately withdrawn after a cheery wave nearly resulted in a swerve and dive into a Cornish hedge.
2. No pedaling down hill policy was introduced this morning which is saving a little wear and tear and energy. With panniers the bike wobbles at speed and when this is combined with the playful nudge in the back from the passing lorry "pressure wave", it's a little bit scary so speeds down hill are kept low.
Every morning I hope for a flat mile or so to get myself warmed up and every morning I'm rudely awakened with a horrible couple of miles uphill. This morning was no exception as climbing out of St Austell was a bugger. The rest of the run into Bodmin was lovely and I thought I was going to be done and dusted early.
After a longish stop in Bodmin for new mits as the old ones fell apart yesterday after 3 days, the drag over Bodmin Moor was horrible! Rain, lots of traffic and quite high winds. Spending the majority of the ride in the gutter I was amazed at the amount of roadkill there was. I could avoid most but if a lorry if overtaking, there is no room for manouvre so have to close mouth and eyes tight before ploughing on through!
More of the same tomorrow I guess :-)
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Today's route was from St Austell following the A391 to Bodmin. With some side tracks to keep off the main road a bit. Then a long run along the A30 from Bodmin to just before Launceston.
Have been musing this morning about adding some regular updates and first of these will be pain:
Pain
General leg pain reducing early. Bottom pain rising expected high later. Anticipated knee pain remains low thanks to streeeettttcchhingggg! Un-expected elbow pain rising sharply.
While cycling, "policies" are to be implemented to make the way easier or to deal with certain repetitive situations. Policy updates will be filed as required:
Policy update
1. A 'wave at courteous' lorry drivers policy was implemented and immediately withdrawn after a cheery wave nearly resulted in a swerve and dive into a Cornish hedge.
2. No pedaling down hill policy was introduced this morning which is saving a little wear and tear and energy. With panniers the bike wobbles at speed and when this is combined with the playful nudge in the back from the passing lorry "pressure wave", it's a little bit scary so speeds down hill are kept low.
Every morning I hope for a flat mile or so to get myself warmed up and every morning I'm rudely awakened with a horrible couple of miles uphill. This morning was no exception as climbing out of St Austell was a bugger. The rest of the run into Bodmin was lovely and I thought I was going to be done and dusted early.
After a longish stop in Bodmin for new mits as the old ones fell apart yesterday after 3 days, the drag over Bodmin Moor was horrible! Rain, lots of traffic and quite high winds. Spending the majority of the ride in the gutter I was amazed at the amount of roadkill there was. I could avoid most but if a lorry if overtaking, there is no room for manouvre so have to close mouth and eyes tight before ploughing on through!
More of the same tomorrow I guess :-)
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Tuesday 16 August 2011
Day 2 - S'Norstle (St Austell)
I knew this was going to be a long day for me having to set a new Personal Best for daily mileage. Having chatted last night to locals in the pub I got directions for a route away from the main roads to Truro. I was assured that there were only a couple of little hills. I must remember next time to ask them if they are cyclists. If they are not then it's best to ignore the directions!!
Hill after punishing hill came my way and in drizzly rain I quietly cursed my new friends from last night. To put a top hat on it I then took a wrong turn but didn't realise until I'd gone a mile and a half down hill. Bugger! I looked at the map and the only thing to do was turn round and go back. That's 3 extra miles and 2 big hills I can ill afford.
The grim and very busy A394 beckoned as the navigation would be easier. The main road whilst busy is easier and the hills felt slightly less sharp. Progress was much faster on the big road but dull. I was soon flying down the hill into Truro. Wearing a yellow top was inviting a lot of attention from bees today and I hit a huge bumble bee in the chest. (My chest that is.) At 30 miles an hour it hurt! Probably him more than me.
Queuing in Marks and Spencer's for supplies I must have stood out like a sore thumb. Bright yellow top, bright red face and an un Godly smell! I think the latter expedited progress towards the till.
I checked the map on my phone expecting 12 miles to S'Norstle and it was 15 miles! How my heart sank. The last leg wasn't dull but can be summed up in a few words:
Cars, hills, clouds, hills, snot, drinking water, hills, eating, hills, swearing at drivers, giving v sign to drivers, hills, helpful lady at Tourist Information, last hill and Bed and Breakfast. So a very happy boy has supper with a pint of Trelawney (I was hoping for "Proper Job" but it was off. Now very ready for bed.
Hill after punishing hill came my way and in drizzly rain I quietly cursed my new friends from last night. To put a top hat on it I then took a wrong turn but didn't realise until I'd gone a mile and a half down hill. Bugger! I looked at the map and the only thing to do was turn round and go back. That's 3 extra miles and 2 big hills I can ill afford.
The grim and very busy A394 beckoned as the navigation would be easier. The main road whilst busy is easier and the hills felt slightly less sharp. Progress was much faster on the big road but dull. I was soon flying down the hill into Truro. Wearing a yellow top was inviting a lot of attention from bees today and I hit a huge bumble bee in the chest. (My chest that is.) At 30 miles an hour it hurt! Probably him more than me.
Queuing in Marks and Spencer's for supplies I must have stood out like a sore thumb. Bright yellow top, bright red face and an un Godly smell! I think the latter expedited progress towards the till.
I checked the map on my phone expecting 12 miles to S'Norstle and it was 15 miles! How my heart sank. The last leg wasn't dull but can be summed up in a few words:
Cars, hills, clouds, hills, snot, drinking water, hills, eating, hills, swearing at drivers, giving v sign to drivers, hills, helpful lady at Tourist Information, last hill and Bed and Breakfast. So a very happy boy has supper with a pint of Trelawney (I was hoping for "Proper Job" but it was off. Now very ready for bed.
Monday 15 August 2011
Day 1 - Lands End to Helston
I would love to post my departure photo but there is no 3G here so it's too slow. I'll post it to Facebook with the link to this blog.
There were a handful of people starting off today. A couple of groups, a couple of lads with support vehicle and me....solo and un-supported. We all got there before 10 do although it wasn't open and we didn't get photos with the finger board, there is a sign saying Lands End 2011. That was enough for me.
All of a sudden, I was off and doing what I have been day dreaming about for so many years. The hills so far have been pretty much OK apart from the one when I came off the main road to avoid traffic which did a spectacular down hill followed by.....you've guessed it a massive up hill.
So my route was following the A30 from Lands End to Penzance where I dropped down onto the sea front and found the coast path cycle route along to Marazion. At Marazion I picked up the A394 which I followed before turning off on to minor roads to wiggle up to Sithney which is a tiny village north of Helston.
I'm staying in the Granary Barn bunk house run by Tom. I've got the place to myself so I'm in a huge dorm off the farm yard with bathroom and toilet ensuite (well they are the other side of the farm yard). It's really great and only £10 so fantastic value.
The rain has just started and the forecast is for 4 days of rain. Oh goody! Looking forward to that!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
There were a handful of people starting off today. A couple of groups, a couple of lads with support vehicle and me....solo and un-supported. We all got there before 10 do although it wasn't open and we didn't get photos with the finger board, there is a sign saying Lands End 2011. That was enough for me.
All of a sudden, I was off and doing what I have been day dreaming about for so many years. The hills so far have been pretty much OK apart from the one when I came off the main road to avoid traffic which did a spectacular down hill followed by.....you've guessed it a massive up hill.
So my route was following the A30 from Lands End to Penzance where I dropped down onto the sea front and found the coast path cycle route along to Marazion. At Marazion I picked up the A394 which I followed before turning off on to minor roads to wiggle up to Sithney which is a tiny village north of Helston.
I'm staying in the Granary Barn bunk house run by Tom. I've got the place to myself so I'm in a huge dorm off the farm yard with bathroom and toilet ensuite (well they are the other side of the farm yard). It's really great and only £10 so fantastic value.
The rain has just started and the forecast is for 4 days of rain. Oh goody! Looking forward to that!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
First taste of Cornish hills and Cornish miles
I'm having supper over looking a beautiful valley running down to the sea just north of Lands End. I thought the hostel was a lot closer so have an extra 4 miles to do tomorrow but it is just down hill so should be ok.
The day was mostly taken up with the train journey from Winchester to Penzance via Basingstoke. I didn't realise that a train could stop so many times between Basingstoke and Exeter.
It's now time for a short rant about the parlous state of cycle provision on trains. On the whole of a 10 coach South West Tains service there are 3 cycle spaces. The racks are floor mounted ones that clamp the front wheel. Offer no support to the rest of the bike and all the panniers have to come off. First Great Western was better but there were probably still only 6 or 8 spaces on an 8 coach train. End of rant but I will have to give some serious thought to getting back from John O'Groats. After today's experience, I might courier the bike back and fly home.
The train ride from Exeter to Penzance was one of the prettiest I have ever been on and I had always wanted to go on that stretch by Dawlish and Teignmouth where the train is jammed between the back of the beach and the cliff:
I had a few minutes in Penzance to get an egg and bacon bap and wonder at the cross section of people that live there. It appeared to be a strange mix of public school boys and girls on holiday, fishermen and festival goers. Although there aren't any festivals going on!!
The day was mostly taken up with the train journey from Winchester to Penzance via Basingstoke. I didn't realise that a train could stop so many times between Basingstoke and Exeter.
It's now time for a short rant about the parlous state of cycle provision on trains. On the whole of a 10 coach South West Tains service there are 3 cycle spaces. The racks are floor mounted ones that clamp the front wheel. Offer no support to the rest of the bike and all the panniers have to come off. First Great Western was better but there were probably still only 6 or 8 spaces on an 8 coach train. End of rant but I will have to give some serious thought to getting back from John O'Groats. After today's experience, I might courier the bike back and fly home.
The train ride from Exeter to Penzance was one of the prettiest I have ever been on and I had always wanted to go on that stretch by Dawlish and Teignmouth where the train is jammed between the back of the beach and the cliff:
I had a few minutes in Penzance to get an egg and bacon bap and wonder at the cross section of people that live there. It appeared to be a strange mix of public school boys and girls on holiday, fishermen and festival goers. Although there aren't any festivals going on!!
Saturday 13 August 2011
LEJOG is nearly here....
It's time to fire up the old blog again having had two weeks of faffing, training, sore knees, packing and re-packing. I'm sitting in bed having hot milk (so Rock and Roll!) typing this first entry of the Lands End to John O'Groats (LEJOG) blog.
For the bike minded amongst you I shall be cycling on a 2008 Gary Fisher Excalibur hardtail. The knobbly 29'er tyres are hanging in the shed and a fresh new pair of Schwalbe Marathon Pluss's have been fitted. I asked for the most bomb proof tyres in the shop. Obviously the front shocks are locked off.
Much head scratching went into the fitting of the pannier rack to overcome the disc brakes and frame geometry that makes this a reluctant tourer. Extension tubes sort out the disc brakes and the stabilising lugs fitted neatly into the seat post quick release assembly with a little hammer shaped persuasion.
The rack is carrying 2 no. 24 litre Altura mid range pannier bags. I looked at Ortleib and then the price tag and carried on down the fitment in the bike shop, stopping short of the "My Little Pony" pannier bag and pink bottle cage set! On the handle bars I have a Topeak "hand bag" for valuables and the days maps.
Kit has been stripped to a minimum:
Not on bike kit:
Long trousers.
T shirt.
Fleece.
1 pair pants.
1 pair socks.
Fleece.
Wind proof souvenir Mont Ventoux cycling jacket!
Flip flops.
Cycling kit:
Trainers.
2 pairs socks.
3 pairs cycling shorts.
3 cycling tops.
Fleece.
Wet weather gear.
With the other odds and sods the whole lot adds up to 10kg :-) I'm not sure if I could get much lighter. Even cut the tooth brush in half and only have 1 reading book.
Right I really do need to sleep! Alarm set for 6 tomorrow morning! Early train to Penzance. Not sure if I'll get much sleep ...... very excited :-) This is what I'll be lugging round for the next month.......
For the bike minded amongst you I shall be cycling on a 2008 Gary Fisher Excalibur hardtail. The knobbly 29'er tyres are hanging in the shed and a fresh new pair of Schwalbe Marathon Pluss's have been fitted. I asked for the most bomb proof tyres in the shop. Obviously the front shocks are locked off.
Much head scratching went into the fitting of the pannier rack to overcome the disc brakes and frame geometry that makes this a reluctant tourer. Extension tubes sort out the disc brakes and the stabilising lugs fitted neatly into the seat post quick release assembly with a little hammer shaped persuasion.
The rack is carrying 2 no. 24 litre Altura mid range pannier bags. I looked at Ortleib and then the price tag and carried on down the fitment in the bike shop, stopping short of the "My Little Pony" pannier bag and pink bottle cage set! On the handle bars I have a Topeak "hand bag" for valuables and the days maps.
Kit has been stripped to a minimum:
Not on bike kit:
Long trousers.
T shirt.
Fleece.
1 pair pants.
1 pair socks.
Fleece.
Wind proof souvenir Mont Ventoux cycling jacket!
Flip flops.
Cycling kit:
Trainers.
2 pairs socks.
3 pairs cycling shorts.
3 cycling tops.
Fleece.
Wet weather gear.
With the other odds and sods the whole lot adds up to 10kg :-) I'm not sure if I could get much lighter. Even cut the tooth brush in half and only have 1 reading book.
Right I really do need to sleep! Alarm set for 6 tomorrow morning! Early train to Penzance. Not sure if I'll get much sleep ...... very excited :-) This is what I'll be lugging round for the next month.......
Sunday 24 July 2011
End on a high!
Well it was all set up to end the tour with a great day in Paris bur I have to say this was possibly one of the most rubbish days yet!
Leaving the hotel, parking the car, getting the tickets from the automated machine and lastly getting on the right train all went without a hitch. Great start to the day.
The door to the compartment of the seat number in my ticket was pretty stiff but with a couple of good shoves I got it open and sat down. Someone had left their briefcase open on the on the sear with lots of paperwork and rail tickets. When the guard came back it turned out I had broken the lock on the door of the compartment he had commandeered as his office. He got very shouty and frog marched me down the corridor and put me in another seat. Oopsie!
With that behind me finding the Place de la Concorde was easy enough but getting anywhere near the podium or finish line was a no no. Bugger! Everything is fenced off now for invitees only. Not very egalitarian! You've either got to have money or special needs to get in. Now if anyone looks like they've got special needs.....I should have been at the front of the queue.
Abandoning hope of seeing the finish I set off in search of a good spot. With tight security it wasn't until beyond the Élysées Palace that you could get to the Champs Élysées.
With crowds eight deep I had to settle for bugger all view but I was in Paris and on the Champs Élysées. I got talking to an American couple who were just in town for today before heading off to 'do' Britain. It turns out that this chap used to work for Bob Stapleton the owner of HTC Hiroad the team that Cav rides for. Just then his phone rang "Hey Bob. Long time no speak. Yeah. We're in Paris, France. That'll be neat we'd love to come and meet the guys."
He turned to me and said Bob's invited us to the team bus to meet the guys. Nice to meet you we'll be off. Obviously insane with jealousy I managed to choke out "Say Hello to Mark Cavendish." At which he said over his shoulder "Who?" and walked off.
Now I have been known to faff from time to time and double check a couple of times. Just as well I did as my return to Troyes was for 7am and not 7pm but that was OK I could sort that at the station. However, the stub of the ticket for parking the car was with the rail ticket and I only had an hour left on the ticket. KNICKERS!
I wasn't sure how strict the French are about parking fines, clamping and towing so thought I had better not wait and find out. So I managed to grab the photos below before heading back to get the train and save the car from the pound! Better luck next year eh?
Leaving the hotel, parking the car, getting the tickets from the automated machine and lastly getting on the right train all went without a hitch. Great start to the day.
The door to the compartment of the seat number in my ticket was pretty stiff but with a couple of good shoves I got it open and sat down. Someone had left their briefcase open on the on the sear with lots of paperwork and rail tickets. When the guard came back it turned out I had broken the lock on the door of the compartment he had commandeered as his office. He got very shouty and frog marched me down the corridor and put me in another seat. Oopsie!
With that behind me finding the Place de la Concorde was easy enough but getting anywhere near the podium or finish line was a no no. Bugger! Everything is fenced off now for invitees only. Not very egalitarian! You've either got to have money or special needs to get in. Now if anyone looks like they've got special needs.....I should have been at the front of the queue.
Abandoning hope of seeing the finish I set off in search of a good spot. With tight security it wasn't until beyond the Élysées Palace that you could get to the Champs Élysées.
With crowds eight deep I had to settle for bugger all view but I was in Paris and on the Champs Élysées. I got talking to an American couple who were just in town for today before heading off to 'do' Britain. It turns out that this chap used to work for Bob Stapleton the owner of HTC Hiroad the team that Cav rides for. Just then his phone rang "Hey Bob. Long time no speak. Yeah. We're in Paris, France. That'll be neat we'd love to come and meet the guys."
He turned to me and said Bob's invited us to the team bus to meet the guys. Nice to meet you we'll be off. Obviously insane with jealousy I managed to choke out "Say Hello to Mark Cavendish." At which he said over his shoulder "Who?" and walked off.
Now I have been known to faff from time to time and double check a couple of times. Just as well I did as my return to Troyes was for 7am and not 7pm but that was OK I could sort that at the station. However, the stub of the ticket for parking the car was with the rail ticket and I only had an hour left on the ticket. KNICKERS!
I wasn't sure how strict the French are about parking fines, clamping and towing so thought I had better not wait and find out. So I managed to grab the photos below before heading back to get the train and save the car from the pound! Better luck next year eh?
Saturday 23 July 2011
Last nights
Whilst driving the long slog to my last hotel of the Tour, I was hoping for a few things from the hotel:
1. Ideally located on an industrial estate.
2. Have prefabricated toilet units where you have to have the door open to sit down. (You can see the tv from there so it's not all doom and gloom .)
3. Have a humming factory opposite.
4. It must not be located in the town where it says it is but in the style of budget airlines be located a good 5km from the named town.
5. My adjoining 'roomies' should be hard of hearing thus requiring the tv being turned up to 11.
6. Other adjoining 'roomies' should have a dog who is raising money for children in need by having a sponsored bark-a-thon!
All I can is........Mister Bed of Troyes. You rock!!
The view from my room :-)
Anyway! I'm up at stupid o'clock to get the TGV to Paris (very excited about the train ride on the TGV) and see Cavendish win the stage AND see Cadel Evans cry!
1. Ideally located on an industrial estate.
2. Have prefabricated toilet units where you have to have the door open to sit down. (You can see the tv from there so it's not all doom and gloom .)
3. Have a humming factory opposite.
4. It must not be located in the town where it says it is but in the style of budget airlines be located a good 5km from the named town.
5. My adjoining 'roomies' should be hard of hearing thus requiring the tv being turned up to 11.
6. Other adjoining 'roomies' should have a dog who is raising money for children in need by having a sponsored bark-a-thon!
All I can is........Mister Bed of Troyes. You rock!!
The view from my room :-)
Anyway! I'm up at stupid o'clock to get the TGV to Paris (very excited about the train ride on the TGV) and see Cavendish win the stage AND see Cadel Evans cry!
Col du Galibier
Having talked up my cold to life threatening manflu status I was feeling pretty ropey yesterday morning but thought while I'm here I might as well see if I can get half way up to the Col du Lautaret and watch the stage from there. The official Galibier climb starts in Monetiers Les Bans and climbs at a steady 4% up to the Col du Lautaret, with a little 7% sting just before the Col.
It is a glorious ride on a wide winding road with spectacular views of the alpine masif on each side. The headwind proved to be pretty fierce at times but it was manageable with such an agreeable gradient.
After a dicey part through a tunnel and a couple of switch backs I reached the Col du Lautaret with only mildly burning lungs and plenty left in the legs. Now I had left it a bit late in the day to start so was perilously close to the passing of the caravanne which would put an end to any summit bid.
Pushing on, the 8km to the Col du Galibier pops up to about 7% which was putting my lungs under a bit of pressure. It sort of felt like breathing broken glass. I was now at about 2300m above sea level and I'm guessing the air is starting to get a bit thinner? Maybe I'm just lame!
At about 4km from the top I was duly stopped by the gendarmes. Bugger! So very close, but this could be the first Col I tackle next year. (I hope you like the way I slipped that one in. A couple of weeks 'peak bagging' is on the cards I reckon and on a road bike this time.)
I descended about 2km back to a spot with a great view of the switch backs down to the Col du Lautaret.
The caravanne came and went and I got talking to a lovely French couple who had been on the mountain for a week. They saw the stage the day before that ascended past them and spent two days with a foot of snow!! We discussed the monarchy, the strength of La Republique, draconian French laws and dis respect for gendarmes. They said I should have just ignored the gendarme and carried on regardless!
Anyhow, the riders arrived and this was the first time I had seen a mountain descent and these guys were flying. They weren't fre wheeling but giving it everything they had got. The bikes were right in the edge. Hitting a stone or a pothole and they would be finished. Real courage risking everything to get to the foot of L'Alpe d'Huez first. Chapeau!
While chatting in the afternoon I had decided that 4km was too close to walk away from and although getting late, I would continue with the last of the climb. Forgetting that I had descended 2km it was of course 6km. Bugger!
Feeling like a salmon swimming up stream I battled my way up against a steady flow of descending pedestrians, cyclists,cars and camper vans. The views, terrain and switch backs on the road are amazing as you reach the summit at a reasonable 7% gradient. The signs keep telling you the height you have reached and hiw far you have gone. Some basic maths and you realise with only 2km to go at the current gradient you wont make the summit height, you'll be 100m short. Unless that is the last kilometer is at 10%.
Once you get to a tunnel and set of traffic lights there is the answer. Taking a right at the lights, the Tarmac kicks up alarmingly and a terrifying series of alpine switch backs is your reward to take you up to the summit of the Col.
So with heart pounding and chest sore, for the first time, the numbers scribbled on the road indicating distance to the summit wee correct. Reaching the summit of the Col du Galibier at 2645m above sea level is sometime else. You are on top of the world.....looking down on creation and the only thing.....la! La! La! Thank you Karen Carpenter, that was my ear worm for the entire descent! Aaargh!!
Gratuitous summit shot!
It is a glorious ride on a wide winding road with spectacular views of the alpine masif on each side. The headwind proved to be pretty fierce at times but it was manageable with such an agreeable gradient.
After a dicey part through a tunnel and a couple of switch backs I reached the Col du Lautaret with only mildly burning lungs and plenty left in the legs. Now I had left it a bit late in the day to start so was perilously close to the passing of the caravanne which would put an end to any summit bid.
Pushing on, the 8km to the Col du Galibier pops up to about 7% which was putting my lungs under a bit of pressure. It sort of felt like breathing broken glass. I was now at about 2300m above sea level and I'm guessing the air is starting to get a bit thinner? Maybe I'm just lame!
At about 4km from the top I was duly stopped by the gendarmes. Bugger! So very close, but this could be the first Col I tackle next year. (I hope you like the way I slipped that one in. A couple of weeks 'peak bagging' is on the cards I reckon and on a road bike this time.)
I descended about 2km back to a spot with a great view of the switch backs down to the Col du Lautaret.
The caravanne came and went and I got talking to a lovely French couple who had been on the mountain for a week. They saw the stage the day before that ascended past them and spent two days with a foot of snow!! We discussed the monarchy, the strength of La Republique, draconian French laws and dis respect for gendarmes. They said I should have just ignored the gendarme and carried on regardless!
Anyhow, the riders arrived and this was the first time I had seen a mountain descent and these guys were flying. They weren't fre wheeling but giving it everything they had got. The bikes were right in the edge. Hitting a stone or a pothole and they would be finished. Real courage risking everything to get to the foot of L'Alpe d'Huez first. Chapeau!
While chatting in the afternoon I had decided that 4km was too close to walk away from and although getting late, I would continue with the last of the climb. Forgetting that I had descended 2km it was of course 6km. Bugger!
Feeling like a salmon swimming up stream I battled my way up against a steady flow of descending pedestrians, cyclists,cars and camper vans. The views, terrain and switch backs on the road are amazing as you reach the summit at a reasonable 7% gradient. The signs keep telling you the height you have reached and hiw far you have gone. Some basic maths and you realise with only 2km to go at the current gradient you wont make the summit height, you'll be 100m short. Unless that is the last kilometer is at 10%.
Once you get to a tunnel and set of traffic lights there is the answer. Taking a right at the lights, the Tarmac kicks up alarmingly and a terrifying series of alpine switch backs is your reward to take you up to the summit of the Col.
So with heart pounding and chest sore, for the first time, the numbers scribbled on the road indicating distance to the summit wee correct. Reaching the summit of the Col du Galibier at 2645m above sea level is sometime else. You are on top of the world.....looking down on creation and the only thing.....la! La! La! Thank you Karen Carpenter, that was my ear worm for the entire descent! Aaargh!!
Gratuitous summit shot!
Thursday 21 July 2011
End of camping
After a long cold night with little or no sleep prompted by a failing sleeping bag, low temperatures, man flu, a fox ripping open my bin bag and finding a flat tyre I have called a halt to the camping 2 nights ahead of schedule. There have been 20 nights in a tent at 6 campsites so I feel I've done my bit.
So this afternoon I checked into a great little Logis de France hotel in the beautiful ski station of Vars St Marie high up in the southern Alps. Looking forward to the supper tonight as the plat du jour is duck. Well if you insist!
The man flu developed into a bad stomach this morning and I didn't fancy the 150m dash in the middle of the night. However, that seems to have passed leaving me starving. Still have a thick head, ringing ears, blocked nose, headache for 3rd day and no energy. Gutted that I had to watch the Galibier finish from my suck bed.
However, the view from my balcony is pretty cool.
Whilst lunching on a Jambon Buerre I found a new friend, possibly having something to do with food?
Oh and a shiny beetle. I'm guessing these are like the ones that Gerald Durrell used to buy fr the beetle man in Corfu.
So this afternoon I checked into a great little Logis de France hotel in the beautiful ski station of Vars St Marie high up in the southern Alps. Looking forward to the supper tonight as the plat du jour is duck. Well if you insist!
The man flu developed into a bad stomach this morning and I didn't fancy the 150m dash in the middle of the night. However, that seems to have passed leaving me starving. Still have a thick head, ringing ears, blocked nose, headache for 3rd day and no energy. Gutted that I had to watch the Galibier finish from my suck bed.
However, the view from my balcony is pretty cool.
Whilst lunching on a Jambon Buerre I found a new friend, possibly having something to do with food?
Oh and a shiny beetle. I'm guessing these are like the ones that Gerald Durrell used to buy fr the beetle man in Corfu.
Man bags
Being pathologically disorganised and constantly searching through bulging pockets to find keys, wallet, phone and various other items I have long admired the continental European male's embracing of the 'man bag'.
I finally found a great little black number by RIPCURL and have transferred the contents of my pockets to my new one stop shop for bits and bobs. Strutting along the high street in France it looks pretty cool as it is slung over the shoulder nestling in the small of my back at a jaunty rake.
Slight concern is, will this be sustainable once beyond immigration at Dover?
I finally found a great little black number by RIPCURL and have transferred the contents of my pockets to my new one stop shop for bits and bobs. Strutting along the high street in France it looks pretty cool as it is slung over the shoulder nestling in the small of my back at a jaunty rake.
Slight concern is, will this be sustainable once beyond immigration at Dover?
Wednesday 20 July 2011
Man flu stops play...
I've got a stinking cold and took to my bed. Normal service will be resumed when I've recovered. Might have to miss out the Galibier tomorrow :-(((( There is 100+ mm of snow on the summit!
Sitting in the campsite bar to send this and just realised that I didn't wipe the sudocrem off the end of my sore nose before leaving the tent! Oppsie!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Sitting in the campsite bar to send this and just realised that I didn't wipe the sudocrem off the end of my sore nose before leaving the tent! Oppsie!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Monday 18 July 2011
Le Mont Ventoux
The unfinished business on the slopes of Le Mont Ventoux is now concluded and the account closed. Making coffee at 6.30 this morning and pulling on my cycling gear I was actually really nervous. Despite success on the Tourmalet I was still apprehensive about slaying The Giant of Provence. Having tried and failed two years ago there was something of a mental block to overcome. This was possibly the biggest obstacle of the day.
As the ride started lead like legs did nothing to reassure me that it was going to be possible. The initial part of the climb is through vineyards, olive groves and pine forests and is pretty much straight in to the average 9% gradient. Being an average means that you hit 12% at certain points. On some of the switch back corners it's like cycling up a wall.
The previous personal best of 11km came and went and I was into unexplored teritory. Just before the Chalet Reynard and the end of the tree cover there is a brutal section of tight bends that averages 10%.
After the earlier 9% and 10% sections when the gradient drops to 7% after the Chalet Reynard it feels like you are going down hill. That is until the first bend after the Chalet is reached and the wind hits you in face. Bottom gear, standing on the peddles and I came to a standstill.
Having left the cover of the trees behind the exposed section of the climb is like cycling on the moon. White limestone is banked up either side of the road creating eddies that can stop you dead or blow you over. Not to mention into the paths of descending cars and bikes. The wind changes from head wind to side wind as the road wriggles up the Giant's spine. My pannier bag was acting like a sail and pulling the back wheel to the side and then when the gradient kicks up to 10% again in the head wind the front wheel was lifting.
The monument to Tom Simpson who died on the Ventoux and is one of Le Tour's great characters came into view and the tower on top of the hill looked like it was getting closer for the first time in the ride. It probably wasn't until now that I allowed myself the luxury of thinking that this was possible.
A couple more switch backs and I would be there with one last blast of wind just as I rounded the last corner I was in the lee of the tower and had made the summit. Gratuitous summit shots below and I brought the most expensive bag of jelly babies from the sweetie stall on the summit.
I had to peddle for the first part of the descent because of the wind! It was pretty harry coming down with about 500 bikes passing me on their way up and loads of cars. Coffee and crepe at the Chalet Reynard to stop me shivering and then full tilt back to Befoin. Defiately a quiet afternoon reflecting on an awesome ride and being thankful that I never have to do that again. Well in fairness I have done it one and a half times.
As the ride started lead like legs did nothing to reassure me that it was going to be possible. The initial part of the climb is through vineyards, olive groves and pine forests and is pretty much straight in to the average 9% gradient. Being an average means that you hit 12% at certain points. On some of the switch back corners it's like cycling up a wall.
The previous personal best of 11km came and went and I was into unexplored teritory. Just before the Chalet Reynard and the end of the tree cover there is a brutal section of tight bends that averages 10%.
After the earlier 9% and 10% sections when the gradient drops to 7% after the Chalet Reynard it feels like you are going down hill. That is until the first bend after the Chalet is reached and the wind hits you in face. Bottom gear, standing on the peddles and I came to a standstill.
Having left the cover of the trees behind the exposed section of the climb is like cycling on the moon. White limestone is banked up either side of the road creating eddies that can stop you dead or blow you over. Not to mention into the paths of descending cars and bikes. The wind changes from head wind to side wind as the road wriggles up the Giant's spine. My pannier bag was acting like a sail and pulling the back wheel to the side and then when the gradient kicks up to 10% again in the head wind the front wheel was lifting.
The monument to Tom Simpson who died on the Ventoux and is one of Le Tour's great characters came into view and the tower on top of the hill looked like it was getting closer for the first time in the ride. It probably wasn't until now that I allowed myself the luxury of thinking that this was possible.
A couple more switch backs and I would be there with one last blast of wind just as I rounded the last corner I was in the lee of the tower and had made the summit. Gratuitous summit shots below and I brought the most expensive bag of jelly babies from the sweetie stall on the summit.
I had to peddle for the first part of the descent because of the wind! It was pretty harry coming down with about 500 bikes passing me on their way up and loads of cars. Coffee and crepe at the Chalet Reynard to stop me shivering and then full tilt back to Befoin. Defiately a quiet afternoon reflecting on an awesome ride and being thankful that I never have to do that again. Well in fairness I have done it one and a half times.
Bedoin
Bedoin in Provence is all about bikes. I can see three bike shops from where I am sitting in a little square opposite a roundabout with a sign that strikes fear into the very soul of even the most hardcore cyclists.
Pretty much every restaurant does a "velo special" and I'm imagining it'll be a huge bowl of pasta. That's certainly what I'm heading for. Carb loading!
While pitching the tent in the rain this afternoon Le Mont Ventoux remained stubbornly hidden but you know it's there. Whilst geologically part of the Alps it rises to 1912m from the plains of Provence. It generates it's own weather and is always battered by high winds. There were some amazing clouds sitting just above this evening.
The rain has cleared and the weather is set fair for tomorrow. I'll be heading off at about 7am to avoid the heat as it's due to rise to 29 degrees tomorrow. Pasta now and let's see what tomorrow brings.
Pretty much every restaurant does a "velo special" and I'm imagining it'll be a huge bowl of pasta. That's certainly what I'm heading for. Carb loading!
While pitching the tent in the rain this afternoon Le Mont Ventoux remained stubbornly hidden but you know it's there. Whilst geologically part of the Alps it rises to 1912m from the plains of Provence. It generates it's own weather and is always battered by high winds. There were some amazing clouds sitting just above this evening.
The rain has cleared and the weather is set fair for tomorrow. I'll be heading off at about 7am to avoid the heat as it's due to rise to 29 degrees tomorrow. Pasta now and let's see what tomorrow brings.
Seix <sniggers>
As I've seen a start, a finish, fast runs through a small village, climbing a mountain and going over the top of a Col, I thought it about time to see what happens at a feeding station. The town of Seix hosted the feeding today so with awesome comedy potential I thought I would see what Seix in France was like .
I found the designated litter drop off run and thought that there would be feed bags and bottles to collect for trophies. Not a bit of it. After a two hour wait. Not even an official Tour de France sausage!! However, the peleton was stretched out in single file so got some great video footage of the streaming past from a precarious camera position in the gutter. Don't worry Simon the camera was fine.
Back to the campsite and a quick twenty miles up the valley and back before tea. The advantage of cycling before your supper is that you can enjoy a splendid entree of flies bugs and mosquitos before you prepare the main course.
Before I forget this is Camp 4 and having a beer before packing as there is another early off tomorrow morning.
Tricky not spilling beer or dropping camera!
Anyway, knees seem to hold up ok on this evenings slight uphill so fingers crossed for The Ventoux on Monday!!
I found the designated litter drop off run and thought that there would be feed bags and bottles to collect for trophies. Not a bit of it. After a two hour wait. Not even an official Tour de France sausage!! However, the peleton was stretched out in single file so got some great video footage of the streaming past from a precarious camera position in the gutter. Don't worry Simon the camera was fine.
Back to the campsite and a quick twenty miles up the valley and back before tea. The advantage of cycling before your supper is that you can enjoy a splendid entree of flies bugs and mosquitos before you prepare the main course.
Before I forget this is Camp 4 and having a beer before packing as there is another early off tomorrow morning.
Tricky not spilling beer or dropping camera!
Anyway, knees seem to hold up ok on this evenings slight uphill so fingers crossed for The Ventoux on Monday!!
Friday 15 July 2011
Col du Soulhor
Just having a bite to eat and still about an hour from campsite having spent the day on the Col du Soulhor. It was the last climb after the Aubuisque and I thought it would be pretty quiet.
Not a bit of it. It was rammed up there. Resting the knee I drow up to within 3pm of the top and then walked the rest of the way. Taking care to point the car down hill on as flat a bit of grass as I could.
The route up had been used previously as a way up to the Aubisque as there were names painted on the road all the way up. It was a very thin road with alpine bends galore. Trying to overtake cyclists was a nightmare as it was so narrow. The only way to do it was to wait until the cyclists signaled you could pass.
There was a lot of excitement on top as a spectator was taken I'll and had to be airlifted off. As progress was so slow up the Aubisque all the official cars stopped and 5 media helicopters landed nearby. Great cycling as they went over the top all split up. Lots of people handing out newspapers for tucking into cycling shirts.
A long walk back to the car was followed by a really long and scary descent. Sitting having my tea I've just realised that I've got sunburnt ears. Ouch!
Not a bit of it. It was rammed up there. Resting the knee I drow up to within 3pm of the top and then walked the rest of the way. Taking care to point the car down hill on as flat a bit of grass as I could.
The route up had been used previously as a way up to the Aubisque as there were names painted on the road all the way up. It was a very thin road with alpine bends galore. Trying to overtake cyclists was a nightmare as it was so narrow. The only way to do it was to wait until the cyclists signaled you could pass.
There was a lot of excitement on top as a spectator was taken I'll and had to be airlifted off. As progress was so slow up the Aubisque all the official cars stopped and 5 media helicopters landed nearby. Great cycling as they went over the top all split up. Lots of people handing out newspapers for tucking into cycling shirts.
A long walk back to the car was followed by a really long and scary descent. Sitting having my tea I've just realised that I've got sunburnt ears. Ouch!
Thursday 14 July 2011
Col du Tourmalet
Massive day in the mountains!! I parked the car in a village called Beaudean and after starting ti ride gasped when the sign read 22km to the summit of the Tourmalet. By the time I reached the town of St Marie de Campan, the last village before the climb proper I was knackered. There are markers every 1pm to tell you how high you are and how far you have to go. Counting down from 17km.
At first these are just taunting you as you. Basically saying you still have 16km and 1100m to climb. However, once you get down to single figures they are mental staging posts to head for. I had to stop at 9k, 7k,5k and most sadly at 500m to go. Sorry for the purists who want it done in one hit but this is climbing to 2115m.
The summit isn't revealed until you are within 25m as it is tucked round a corner. All of a sudden you are in amongst hundreds of Lycra clad cyclists on awesome road bikes. Up I roll on a mountain bike with thin tyres. Only being upstaged by a Welsh chap on a mountain bike, 4 paniers and a trailer! Chapeau! To him for doing that.
Anyway, it was sold cold I had to put on every bit of clothing that I had to keep warm and then descended to the Village of Pic du Midi for coffee and sandwich.
Hours of hanging around were rewarded with a great run of cyclists all spread out as the hills had really split the peleton.
Pics of the peleton below:
And the king of the mountains who was so far back he would surely be deposed:
Last but not least a heard of Alpacas threatened to run across the road. When the gendarme blew his whistle at them hoots of derision erupted. More police were drafted in to prevent disaster.
What a day. Happy happy boy :-)
Oh about the descent. That took about an hour and had to stop to defrost cramped hands and let the discs cool down! Easy day tomorrow I think.
At first these are just taunting you as you. Basically saying you still have 16km and 1100m to climb. However, once you get down to single figures they are mental staging posts to head for. I had to stop at 9k, 7k,5k and most sadly at 500m to go. Sorry for the purists who want it done in one hit but this is climbing to 2115m.
The summit isn't revealed until you are within 25m as it is tucked round a corner. All of a sudden you are in amongst hundreds of Lycra clad cyclists on awesome road bikes. Up I roll on a mountain bike with thin tyres. Only being upstaged by a Welsh chap on a mountain bike, 4 paniers and a trailer! Chapeau! To him for doing that.
Anyway, it was sold cold I had to put on every bit of clothing that I had to keep warm and then descended to the Village of Pic du Midi for coffee and sandwich.
Hours of hanging around were rewarded with a great run of cyclists all spread out as the hills had really split the peleton.
Pics of the peleton below:
And the king of the mountains who was so far back he would surely be deposed:
Last but not least a heard of Alpacas threatened to run across the road. When the gendarme blew his whistle at them hoots of derision erupted. More police were drafted in to prevent disaster.
What a day. Happy happy boy :-)
Oh about the descent. That took about an hour and had to stop to defrost cramped hands and let the discs cool down! Easy day tomorrow I think.
Wednesday 13 July 2011
Rain, rain go away.....
An 8 hour drive in the rain, putting up a tent in the rain, cooking tea in the rain and getting caught in the traffic heading up to the Col do Tourmalet.......in the rain.
Cold and wet. Hopefully the will come out tomorrow. Oh and the camp site is big and busy. Not what I'm used to but it'll have to do.
Order for tonight is to have tea. Tidy up and go to bed. I have lots of podcasts saved up for just such an eventuality.
First big climb tomorrow on the tour and for me so looking forward to it.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Cold and wet. Hopefully the will come out tomorrow. Oh and the camp site is big and busy. Not what I'm used to but it'll have to do.
Order for tonight is to have tea. Tidy up and go to bed. I have lots of podcasts saved up for just such an eventuality.
First big climb tomorrow on the tour and for me so looking forward to it.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Tuesday 12 July 2011
Camping
Before coming away I was slightly apprehensive about traveling on my own in the car and in the tent. It's not like staying in a hostel with a common room where there are people 'on tap' as it were. However, I have met people every day to chat to. Initially mostly English and Dutch but being the only English person on this campsite I was something of a curiosity.
I'm obviously used to people pointing and staring so being a curiosity isn't a problem :-) At every campsite there are English speaking staff but I have said that I am trying to improve my French so I would like to speak French. To this end I can not only ask for basic things but I can now hold down a simple conversation.
The friendliness of the French and 'campers' in general has been something of a revelation and sitting in the campsite bar with my new French and Dutch friends tonight has been great. You just don't get that sitting in a hotel and the other good news is that I still have two weeks left in France.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
I'm obviously used to people pointing and staring so being a curiosity isn't a problem :-) At every campsite there are English speaking staff but I have said that I am trying to improve my French so I would like to speak French. To this end I can not only ask for basic things but I can now hold down a simple conversation.
The friendliness of the French and 'campers' in general has been something of a revelation and sitting in the campsite bar with my new French and Dutch friends tonight has been great. You just don't get that sitting in a hotel and the other good news is that I still have two weeks left in France.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Aurillac to Carmaux
Frustrating day today as I underestimated the time to get to the start town of Aurillac. Obviously needed to be there early to get a good spot to see the start. So what happened was a 2 hour drive arriving late, couldn't see a damn thing and then getting very wet as it chucked it down.
A soggy 2 hour drive home but made it just in time to catch the last hour before the finish with ice cream and coffee in the campsite bar so turned the day round at the last minute. Kicking myself a quiet day would have been better due to the 7am start tomorrow and 5 hour drive to the Pyrenees.
If you think I'm driving a lot, there are 4,000 official vehicles supporting Le Tour. Add to that the 7 helicopters flying for 5 to 6 hours a day, that's a lot of gas! To follow 200 blokes on bikes.
The order "Prepare to move" has been posted and a certain amount of tidying up and reorganisation is required along with packing the car before bed. I must get hold of cash and oil for my chain tomorrow.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
A soggy 2 hour drive home but made it just in time to catch the last hour before the finish with ice cream and coffee in the campsite bar so turned the day round at the last minute. Kicking myself a quiet day would have been better due to the 7am start tomorrow and 5 hour drive to the Pyrenees.
If you think I'm driving a lot, there are 4,000 official vehicles supporting Le Tour. Add to that the 7 helicopters flying for 5 to 6 hours a day, that's a lot of gas! To follow 200 blokes on bikes.
The order "Prepare to move" has been posted and a certain amount of tidying up and reorganisation is required along with packing the car before bed. I must get hold of cash and oil for my chain tomorrow.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Monday 11 July 2011
Rest day
Rest day on Le Tour de France but busy on Le Tour de Ollie. Shopping and washing took up some of the day with the remainder spent lying in the shade as the temperature hit the low nineties! A beautiful early evening cycle to the top of the hill beyond the campsite has left me with sore thighs and ham strings like piano wire. May need to stretch at some point soon.
I think you can tell that you have an un healthy relationship with your bike when you go over the top of a hill and while enjoying the descent, you are kind of looking forward to turning round and climbing back up again. Anyway, I got a good solid hour of climbing in tonight as I have realised there are just three days to my first mountain. Col du Tourmalet is looming large for Thursday with the Col d'Aubisque on Friday. Sudacrem at the ready!!
The weather is set fair again for tomorrow and I'm hoping to go to start in Aurillac and then catch a Category 3 climb. That will be followed by a huge traffic jam and wondering if I'll be back by night fall.
The weather had to be good tomorrow as I washed all of my pants today and they didn't dry. Still I've got the rest of tonight to find the nearest hypermarche and practice my underpant mime.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
I think you can tell that you have an un healthy relationship with your bike when you go over the top of a hill and while enjoying the descent, you are kind of looking forward to turning round and climbing back up again. Anyway, I got a good solid hour of climbing in tonight as I have realised there are just three days to my first mountain. Col du Tourmalet is looming large for Thursday with the Col d'Aubisque on Friday. Sudacrem at the ready!!
The weather is set fair again for tomorrow and I'm hoping to go to start in Aurillac and then catch a Category 3 climb. That will be followed by a huge traffic jam and wondering if I'll be back by night fall.
The weather had to be good tomorrow as I washed all of my pants today and they didn't dry. Still I've got the rest of tonight to find the nearest hypermarche and practice my underpant mime.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Sunday 10 July 2011
Stage 9 Issoire to Saint Flour
Rain hammering on the tent woke me at about half past six followed by thunder, lightning and then hail. Looking good for today! The flood warning sirens sounded a few times but no one came round to evacuate so things were looking up.
The Tour was coming close to the camp site and going off on a loop so I could catch it twice in a day. First stop was the tiny village of Lanau. I had missed the caravanne so just managed to get some video of the breakaway and then the peleton as it squeezed over a narrow bridge.
The area here on the border if the Haute Loire and southern Auvergne is beautiful. Mountains, plains, rocky out crops with churches and chateau that appear to grow out of the rock. Black Kites, Red Kites and Buzzards are in abundance here. You'll easily see 20 or 30 in a day. The Kites are in groups of 3 or 4.
Second stop after a great drive along a winding gorge was Murat. I had my eye on a category 3 climb that would have been a good spot for an attack about 50 km from the finish. However, to get there I had to cycle against the flow of traffic and the gendarme said NON! This time I caught the caravanne a whilst I have been bemoaning it I was standing on my own on the road into town and did a little dance for each of the floats and the gifts rained down on me. I feel a bit dirty now having danced for cheap plastic gifts but I have enough Haarribo to last me a couple of days. I'm going to distribute the booty to children big and small when I get back. In the meantime I'm addicted. I'll be dancing on the outskirts of many more French towns before this tour is out. Oh! and some cyclists came past quite quickly about an hour later,but that's not important. I've got seeties, hats, a bag, a plastic clapping device and a yellow back pack!!
Back to sensible things. There is a great 7 km climb with about 500m ascent up to the campsite and I managed this in about 45 minutes this evening. So I just need to do that 3 times over and contend with whatever weather Le Mont Ventoux decides to chuck at me.
Anyway the reward for the climb was this view and a fantastic down hill roll. Loose gravel lead to a few hairy corners and very hot disc brakes. Need to find another one for tomorrow.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
The Tour was coming close to the camp site and going off on a loop so I could catch it twice in a day. First stop was the tiny village of Lanau. I had missed the caravanne so just managed to get some video of the breakaway and then the peleton as it squeezed over a narrow bridge.
The area here on the border if the Haute Loire and southern Auvergne is beautiful. Mountains, plains, rocky out crops with churches and chateau that appear to grow out of the rock. Black Kites, Red Kites and Buzzards are in abundance here. You'll easily see 20 or 30 in a day. The Kites are in groups of 3 or 4.
Second stop after a great drive along a winding gorge was Murat. I had my eye on a category 3 climb that would have been a good spot for an attack about 50 km from the finish. However, to get there I had to cycle against the flow of traffic and the gendarme said NON! This time I caught the caravanne a whilst I have been bemoaning it I was standing on my own on the road into town and did a little dance for each of the floats and the gifts rained down on me. I feel a bit dirty now having danced for cheap plastic gifts but I have enough Haarribo to last me a couple of days. I'm going to distribute the booty to children big and small when I get back. In the meantime I'm addicted. I'll be dancing on the outskirts of many more French towns before this tour is out. Oh! and some cyclists came past quite quickly about an hour later,but that's not important. I've got seeties, hats, a bag, a plastic clapping device and a yellow back pack!!
Back to sensible things. There is a great 7 km climb with about 500m ascent up to the campsite and I managed this in about 45 minutes this evening. So I just need to do that 3 times over and contend with whatever weather Le Mont Ventoux decides to chuck at me.
Anyway the reward for the climb was this view and a fantastic down hill roll. Loose gravel lead to a few hairy corners and very hot disc brakes. Need to find another one for tomorrow.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
On the move again 09.07
The order to move was given and having got everything bar the tent and myself into the car the night before I was ready for an early start. With a travel time of 6 hours predicted by Via Michelin I could make the finish and get to camp site in good time.
What neither myself or Monsieur Michelin had allowed for was the first day of the English school holiday get away and the rest of France moving too! After a 9 hour epic journey it was tea time, beer and bed!
I'm writing this on Sunday morning in my sleeping bag. It is proper belting it down. Stair rods with thunder, lightning and hail. You know what I might just stay here and then sprint to the camp site bar and pop the telly on. Not keen on getting wetter with no way of drying out!
Bugger! There go the flood warning sirens again. Might just have to get up. Still, things could be worse I could be in a one man tent with no where else to go. I can of course go and crouch in my porch for a change of scenery.
Hmmm! It's not as good as I was hoping.
One last thought. It's best to move from a 2 star camp site to 4 star camp site rather than the other way round, which is what I did. The transition is brutal!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
What neither myself or Monsieur Michelin had allowed for was the first day of the English school holiday get away and the rest of France moving too! After a 9 hour epic journey it was tea time, beer and bed!
I'm writing this on Sunday morning in my sleeping bag. It is proper belting it down. Stair rods with thunder, lightning and hail. You know what I might just stay here and then sprint to the camp site bar and pop the telly on. Not keen on getting wetter with no way of drying out!
Bugger! There go the flood warning sirens again. Might just have to get up. Still, things could be worse I could be in a one man tent with no where else to go. I can of course go and crouch in my porch for a change of scenery.
Hmmm! It's not as good as I was hoping.
One last thought. It's best to move from a 2 star camp site to 4 star camp site rather than the other way round, which is what I did. The transition is brutal!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Saturday 9 July 2011
Wiggins and Cavendish
I had written what I thought was a great blog yesterday evening but hadn't saved it properly before things went wrong technically and it was lost.
It was a campsite day as Le Tour had disappeared off down to Le Mans which was too far away and I knew I had a long drive on Saturday so needed a rest.
Having said that I treated myself to a 30 mile ride along the cycle path that runs along the canal that connects the English Channel to the Atlantic. It was great fun speeding up behind "leisure cyclists" on the tow path and bellowing "Attention a gauche!". Will they go into the brambles or the canal?
Cooking my tea was much like the day on Le Tour. A mixture of elation at Cavendish winning and me cooking the best lamb chop ever and desolation at the loss of Bradley Wiggins and burning the bottom of my frying pan! Well it's nothing like similar really.
Watching the last hour or so of the stage on TV, it was clear that the French seem to have taken Cavendish and Wiggins to their hearts. The commentator was genuinely gutted that Bradley Wiggins had crashed out. Placed 6th going into the mountains he was seen as a real threat and if he attacked would be on the podium in Paris.
Taking his 17th stage win (I think) Mark Cavendish was roared home by the commentator. "Chapeau! Chapeau! Chapeau! Mark Cavondeesh!!".
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
It was a campsite day as Le Tour had disappeared off down to Le Mans which was too far away and I knew I had a long drive on Saturday so needed a rest.
Having said that I treated myself to a 30 mile ride along the cycle path that runs along the canal that connects the English Channel to the Atlantic. It was great fun speeding up behind "leisure cyclists" on the tow path and bellowing "Attention a gauche!". Will they go into the brambles or the canal?
Cooking my tea was much like the day on Le Tour. A mixture of elation at Cavendish winning and me cooking the best lamb chop ever and desolation at the loss of Bradley Wiggins and burning the bottom of my frying pan! Well it's nothing like similar really.
Watching the last hour or so of the stage on TV, it was clear that the French seem to have taken Cavendish and Wiggins to their hearts. The commentator was genuinely gutted that Bradley Wiggins had crashed out. Placed 6th going into the mountains he was seen as a real threat and if he attacked would be on the podium in Paris.
Taking his 17th stage win (I think) Mark Cavendish was roared home by the commentator. "Chapeau! Chapeau! Chapeau! Mark Cavondeesh!!".
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Dol de Bretagne
After the excitement of the Cavendish finish, Thursday was a relatively quiet day. A short drive to the nearby town of Dol de Bretagne and arriving just in time to stock up on Harribo!
There was a long build up for a very quick fly past. A breakaway of about 6 riders were about 3 minutes in front but after only about 25km they would soon be pulled back in by the peleton at some point.
Afternoon was spent dodging showers and getting some more miles in in the blissfully quiet French roads.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
There was a long build up for a very quick fly past. A breakaway of about 6 riders were about 3 minutes in front but after only about 25km they would soon be pulled back in by the peleton at some point.
Afternoon was spent dodging showers and getting some more miles in in the blissfully quiet French roads.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Friday 8 July 2011
Cap Frehel finish
I'm sitting writing this dodging showers drinking mint tea and eating milk chocolate rammed into a baguette. Heaven!
A long day today but great fun. This trip is turning out to be my best so far. So far the weather has been good, campsites excellent and I've met so many friendly people to chat to at camp sites and watching Le Tour.
I kicked off with early breakfast and a great 30 mile peddle. Lots of lovely hills on the way out and a 15 mile flat canal towpath home as a reward.
The only real challenge was the wind which, no matter which direction I was cycling in, was a head wind.
A quick change round, half a baguette and I was off to the first start. An hour and a half later having been stuck in Tour traffic and had an interesting de-tour in Dinan I got to the car park. A brisk 40 minute walk and I'm at the line and on my knees.
Couldn't see a thing! Probably needed to be there since first light.
Settling for a view of the run out after the finish I was almost back at the team bus carpark. Luckily there are big screens so I watched the finish, at the finish, on TV!
The peleton flew past and I got pushed along by the crowd to the carpark. There was no security so you could wander around all the busses as the riders came back. I tried to get a pic of Contador but due to his diminutive stature he wasn't visible above the circle of press.
I got some great pics of riders being interviewed, Tony Martin (Cav's lead out man) talking to the TV and Bradley Wiggins warming down on a......can't think what it's called! One of those bikes that you get at the gym that you peddle but don't go anywhere? Sorry very tired. Time for bed and more of the same tomorrow.
A long day today but great fun. This trip is turning out to be my best so far. So far the weather has been good, campsites excellent and I've met so many friendly people to chat to at camp sites and watching Le Tour.
I kicked off with early breakfast and a great 30 mile peddle. Lots of lovely hills on the way out and a 15 mile flat canal towpath home as a reward.
The only real challenge was the wind which, no matter which direction I was cycling in, was a head wind.
A quick change round, half a baguette and I was off to the first start. An hour and a half later having been stuck in Tour traffic and had an interesting de-tour in Dinan I got to the car park. A brisk 40 minute walk and I'm at the line and on my knees.
Couldn't see a thing! Probably needed to be there since first light.
Settling for a view of the run out after the finish I was almost back at the team bus carpark. Luckily there are big screens so I watched the finish, at the finish, on TV!
The peleton flew past and I got pushed along by the crowd to the carpark. There was no security so you could wander around all the busses as the riders came back. I tried to get a pic of Contador but due to his diminutive stature he wasn't visible above the circle of press.
I got some great pics of riders being interviewed, Tony Martin (Cav's lead out man) talking to the TV and Bradley Wiggins warming down on a......can't think what it's called! One of those bikes that you get at the gym that you peddle but don't go anywhere? Sorry very tired. Time for bed and more of the same tomorrow.
A darker side to Le Tour
Each and every day La Caravanne precedes the cyclists and hands out what must be tonnes of plastic hats, trinkets, sweets and publicity material. The carnival atmosphere is fragile in the extreme as grown men fight children on their hands and knees for a free plastic frisbee, no doubt made in a far eastern sweat shop.
Families hunt in packs with the mother holding the booty haul, the father securing the immediate territory and covering the rear to mop up stray trinkets. The prettiest or neediest looking children are pushed to the front to melt the hearts of the girls on the publicity floats while the facially challenged children operate at ground level. This the most dangerous, working between the legs of adults and facing a swift rebuke if they stray into an adjoining territory.
I can only imagine how the post Caravanne analysis would play out if the family haul failed to meet expectations. If little Jean-Christophe missed a hat or a green foam PMU wavy hand. Straight to bed with no tea and make sure you do better next time. The honour of the family is at stake.
What of all the collectibles? Once the frisbee has made it maiden flight and fallen apart. What possible use is there for a green foam wavy hand once the peleton has passed? One must suspect landfill. I'm as guilty as the next, fighting grown men for a pack of Haribo but I have committed a greater sin. I took a green wavy hand and denied the family next to me and to this day, it sits in a plastic bag in my spare room, un-waved. Shame on me.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Families hunt in packs with the mother holding the booty haul, the father securing the immediate territory and covering the rear to mop up stray trinkets. The prettiest or neediest looking children are pushed to the front to melt the hearts of the girls on the publicity floats while the facially challenged children operate at ground level. This the most dangerous, working between the legs of adults and facing a swift rebuke if they stray into an adjoining territory.
I can only imagine how the post Caravanne analysis would play out if the family haul failed to meet expectations. If little Jean-Christophe missed a hat or a green foam PMU wavy hand. Straight to bed with no tea and make sure you do better next time. The honour of the family is at stake.
What of all the collectibles? Once the frisbee has made it maiden flight and fallen apart. What possible use is there for a green foam wavy hand once the peleton has passed? One must suspect landfill. I'm as guilty as the next, fighting grown men for a pack of Haribo but I have committed a greater sin. I took a green wavy hand and denied the family next to me and to this day, it sits in a plastic bag in my spare room, un-waved. Shame on me.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Wednesday 6 July 2011
Camp Golding 2
A morning of driving and some tricky navigating! Directions in one hand, map on lap and an eye out for a policeman. Found it no problem although having told everyone I'm going to Normandy, I'm in Brittany! The give away being the black and white Breton flags everywhere.
Anyway, Camp 2 established and another 15 miles on the clock before tea which was a lovely Coque au Vin from the local butchers.
A combination of rain and traveling in the wrong direction for Le Tour and meant that I had to spend the early evening in the camp site bar watching it on TV and chewing the breeze or shooting the fat with followers campers.
I only have a 3 man tent and one car of kit in the space allocated to a European uber camper family set up. If there is such a thing as camp set up envy then I have got it!!
The loos are a good hike away so am singing a lullaby about not having to get up in the night for a pee or pees!! Hopefully next door will have stopped arguing about the cryptic crossword they are doing and all the dogs will stop barking.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Anyway, Camp 2 established and another 15 miles on the clock before tea which was a lovely Coque au Vin from the local butchers.
A combination of rain and traveling in the wrong direction for Le Tour and meant that I had to spend the early evening in the camp site bar watching it on TV and chewing the breeze or shooting the fat with followers campers.
I only have a 3 man tent and one car of kit in the space allocated to a European uber camper family set up. If there is such a thing as camp set up envy then I have got it!!
The loos are a good hike away so am singing a lullaby about not having to get up in the night for a pee or pees!! Hopefully next door will have stopped arguing about the cryptic crossword they are doing and all the dogs will stop barking.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Tuesday 5 July 2011
Le Tour arrive en Apremont
Apremont is the nearest village to the campsite an ideal setting for a short film about when Le Tour comes to town. I shot about an hour of footage so hopefully will be able to get a three minute short out of that. Fingers crossed.
It was really hot here today hitting 85 degrees and I haven't started heading south yet. I'm going to have to cycle very early when I'm in the Pyrenees and Provence to avoid the heat. The rest of the day will be spent seeking out shade to watch Le Tour.
My project for the winter months back home will be to edit the film. If it's any good you'll obviously hear all about it, but if it's rubbish I'll not mention it again.
It was really hot here today hitting 85 degrees and I haven't started heading south yet. I'm going to have to cycle very early when I'm in the Pyrenees and Provence to avoid the heat. The rest of the day will be spent seeking out shade to watch Le Tour.
My project for the winter months back home will be to edit the film. If it's any good you'll obviously hear all about it, but if it's rubbish I'll not mention it again.
Time trials - Les Essarts
Rather than follow the "deviation" signs and go the long way round to Les Essarts I decided to carry on the main road until I got turned back by a gendarme. Sandwiched between the BMC support cars and BMC coach, I had got myself onto the road reserved for "technical support". Sure enough I got pulled over pretty quickly and turned around. So a la mode Francais I just parked on the side of the road, got my bike out and cycled into town. I did check with the man in blue if it was "interdite" and it was a "Non Monsieur. Bon Chance."
The Team Lampre car passed me and then the whole of Team Lampre who were out on a warm up run. They pootled along side for a kilometer while I tried no to fall off or wee myself with excitement. Then they took off and disappeared into the team technical area. I stopped and hung around with the rest of France hoping to catch a glimpse of someone having their calves massaged with egg beaters (sorry in film society joke).
The rest of the day was spent trying to get cool photos of time trials until the battery on the camera ran out. A couple of dodgy pics below.
The Sky bus.
The Team Lampre car passed me and then the whole of Team Lampre who were out on a warm up run. They pootled along side for a kilometer while I tried no to fall off or wee myself with excitement. Then they took off and disappeared into the team technical area. I stopped and hung around with the rest of France hoping to catch a glimpse of someone having their calves massaged with egg beaters (sorry in film society joke).
The rest of the day was spent trying to get cool photos of time trials until the battery on the camera ran out. A couple of dodgy pics below.
The Sky bus.
Le Grand Depart
Through a combination of poor planning, camp site faffing and road closures I nearly missed the start! I couldn't get to the acctual Grand Depart but settled for the 0 km sign which is actually where the race proper begins. The precession is just for show. Well that's how I consoled myself. I wanted to get further but the Gendarmes were getting increasingly twitchy as I cycled against the on coming team cars, Le Tour merchandise vans and random press cars.
There is a Gendarmes spaced about every kilometer so it is possible to cycle until they stop you. Get off and apologise, "Oh! Pardon! C'est interdite en velo? Oh! Pardon!" then get back on when out of sight. Repeat until you get where you want to or one gets really shouty. One got really shouty at the 0 km mark, so here I stayed.
Just found my first tic!!
There is a Gendarmes spaced about every kilometer so it is possible to cycle until they stop you. Get off and apologise, "Oh! Pardon! C'est interdite en velo? Oh! Pardon!" then get back on when out of sight. Repeat until you get where you want to or one gets really shouty. One got really shouty at the 0 km mark, so here I stayed.
Just found my first tic!!
Calais to Le Vendee
My predicted 7 hour drive turned into a 9.5 hour epic on top of a 2.30 am start and not a lot of sleep before that. I'm normally pretty good at predicting journey times. I'm not really so the only predictable thing was the fact that it took a lot longer than I predicted. Arrived in one piece and made camp at a camp site near the village of Aprement. I managed to read my Tour de France guide for the next day before sleeping. Very excited about seeing the start of the Tour.
Camp Golding below:
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Camp Golding below:
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Friday 1 July 2011
Dover
Beautiful day at Dover and very early for the ferry. I wonder how much of my life I have spent being early. Never mind I has plenty if time for a game of "Oh bugger! where's the car gone?" on the way back from the toilet :-)
Le Grand Depart
It's stupid o'clock in the morning and as I stepped out of the front door to load the last of the gear, the most amazing shooting star I have ever seen ripped across the night sky. With June behind me and July in France calling I am excited and looking forward to the first coffee and pain au chocolat in France. Pitching the tent tonight and cooking the first camp dinner seems a long way off but will be with me soon, as will 25 days eating,sleeping and drinking Le Tour.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Monday 27 June 2011
Le Tour de 'Ollie'
Here it is, the route I'll be following for the next three weeks. Living out of a tent and the back of my car. Anyone know a good car valet? It's going to need one by the time I'm done..........
Sunday 26 June 2011
Packing!
It's time to start getting really excited about the next trip and the best way to do that is to start packing (after writing a couple of lists of course). Bearing in mind I'm going to France where they have shops and the like, I'm wondering if the spare bed full of stuff is really necessary. Furthermore, I need to leave room for a bike and me.....
Sunday 5 June 2011
Warsaw by night
The amazing Palace of Culture in Warsaw was a gift from Russia to the Polish people. For some strange reason, they weren't to keen on the present. Not quite sure why!
It's now a multiplex cinema, sports centre and offices. Looks pretty impressive when lit up at night and is pretty much visible from anywhere in the city.
In the national museum of army history today I found the most impressive eyebrow moustache combination ever. Look at this fella.
It's now a multiplex cinema, sports centre and offices. Looks pretty impressive when lit up at night and is pretty much visible from anywhere in the city.
In the national museum of army history today I found the most impressive eyebrow moustache combination ever. Look at this fella.
Friday 3 June 2011
Warsaw
Warsaw seems to have a very small old town which is disproportionate to the size of the city that has grown up and surrounded it. The main square looks great and bustling with Friday evening fun.
The 'original' city walls look to be in suspiciously good nick but show how cramped it was inside. In Zakopane all the little boys had little balls that they smash together so the background sound in the evening was lots of little cap guns going off. Here in Warsaw the toy of choice is a pot of slime that makes a raspberry when you push your fingers in it. So the background sound in the old town here is farts. It's sime but it kept me happy :-)
Across the river Warsaw now has a funky new football stadium for Euro whatever the year is.
The 'original' city walls look to be in suspiciously good nick but show how cramped it was inside. In Zakopane all the little boys had little balls that they smash together so the background sound in the evening was lots of little cap guns going off. Here in Warsaw the toy of choice is a pot of slime that makes a raspberry when you push your fingers in it. So the background sound in the old town here is farts. It's sime but it kept me happy :-)
Across the river Warsaw now has a funky new football stadium for Euro whatever the year is.
Thursday 2 June 2011
Auschwitz
If you come to Krakow then visiting Auschwitz would be pretty much mandatory. About 60 km west of Krakow is the town of Oswiecim which is home to the death camps of Auschwitz 1 and Auschwitz-Birkenau.
Auschwitz 1 houses the main museum and interpretation centers and is built on a relatively small scale. A gridiron layout of un-assuming three storey brick buildings with metalled paths between. The buildings have the feel of a small factory complex or industrial estate.
This belies the fact the it was here that Josef Mengle carried out his 'experiments' on women and children. The techniques for mass extermination were developed here with small 'test' gas chambers and a crematorium.
I got there early so that I could walk around without being in a tour party. The sheer number of visitors means that it is a busy bustling place which probably takes away from the intention which is to be a silent memorial and a place for prayer and contemplation.
There were several large groups of Israeli army and police cadets in full ceremonial uniform photographing and filming every last detail. It would appear that visiting Krakow and Auschwitz are part of one's national service duties.
Out of all the exhibits here the most arresting are the piles of personal effects. A pile of glasses, a room full to the ceiling of shoes, a room full of enamel plates and bowls and a room full of women's hair.
Auschwitz-Birkenau is a 2km walk away and is where the full scale of the industrial process of maiming, torture and death was brought to bear. To give an idea of scale, from the ruins of the gas chambers and crematoriums to the main gate house was an 11 minute walk. Barrack houses were located to either side of the railway yard and these stretched for about 1.5km in either direction. 200,000 people could be housed here at anyone time and 1,300,000 people were brought here and for 1,100,000 it was a one way journey.
Auschwitz 1 houses the main museum and interpretation centers and is built on a relatively small scale. A gridiron layout of un-assuming three storey brick buildings with metalled paths between. The buildings have the feel of a small factory complex or industrial estate.
This belies the fact the it was here that Josef Mengle carried out his 'experiments' on women and children. The techniques for mass extermination were developed here with small 'test' gas chambers and a crematorium.
I got there early so that I could walk around without being in a tour party. The sheer number of visitors means that it is a busy bustling place which probably takes away from the intention which is to be a silent memorial and a place for prayer and contemplation.
There were several large groups of Israeli army and police cadets in full ceremonial uniform photographing and filming every last detail. It would appear that visiting Krakow and Auschwitz are part of one's national service duties.
Out of all the exhibits here the most arresting are the piles of personal effects. A pile of glasses, a room full to the ceiling of shoes, a room full of enamel plates and bowls and a room full of women's hair.
Auschwitz-Birkenau is a 2km walk away and is where the full scale of the industrial process of maiming, torture and death was brought to bear. To give an idea of scale, from the ruins of the gas chambers and crematoriums to the main gate house was an 11 minute walk. Barrack houses were located to either side of the railway yard and these stretched for about 1.5km in either direction. 200,000 people could be housed here at anyone time and 1,300,000 people were brought here and for 1,100,000 it was a one way journey.
Restricted lives in Poland
Whilst the Polish nation has embraced freedom and capitalism with open arms, there are still areas of life which don't seem to be able to shake off the over reliance on rules and regulations. For example the photo below list what you can not do on a tram.
No roller skating, bugling or ice cream. I'm really sorry but that has just killed tram travel for me!
No roller skating, bugling or ice cream. I'm really sorry but that has just killed tram travel for me!
Krakow art house cinema
Yet another great little art house cinema find on my tour. The Kino Pod Baranami is set in one of the many old residential palaces that surround the main square in Krakow. It had an African American season on at the moment but I went to see Lars Von Trier's latest epic Melancholia. The film is more accessible than any other Von Trier film I have seen and he seemed to have been able to draw on a cast of 'bankable' stars.
Whilst giving himself plenty of time to develop the characters, after just over two hours, I wasn't overly engaged with them and (not wanting to spoil it) the end came as something of a relief.
Still I think this is the only cinema I have been to with and 18th carved panelled oak ceiling:
http://www.kinopodbaranami.pl
Whilst giving himself plenty of time to develop the characters, after just over two hours, I wasn't overly engaged with them and (not wanting to spoil it) the end came as something of a relief.
Still I think this is the only cinema I have been to with and 18th carved panelled oak ceiling:
http://www.kinopodbaranami.pl
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)