Monday 30 July 2012

Whale watching

Finally got round to getting on a tour boat to go and see some whales. Half an hour by jet boat across Auke Bay and a pod of humpback whales were bubble netting where the head female swims in a circle releasing bubbles to trap the crill and then the whole surges up through the crill.

It's an amazing sight to see 10 whales coming to the surface in a mass of fins, blow hole jets and gaping mouths. They then circle and dive showing everyone the classic shot of a fluke disappearing into the ocean. After 3 or 4 dives the pod dispersed and the boat headed off to another spot.

A lone male was being photographed by a small boat and either the boat got too close or they were playing whale calls under the boat but the whale breached almost on the boat and then flicked its tail almost doing a head stand in the water. Both of these are aggressive moved typical of aggressive males.

Really amazing to see but all too short. Might have to go on another one out of Anchorage. I didn't take any photos on the iPhone do no pics on the blog.

Sunday 29 July 2012

Mendenhall glacier

A short bus ride out of Juneau is a hiking trail up to the Mendenhall glacier. Bear warnings are everywhere as the rangers are paranoid about bear attacks. As the spring was so late and the salmon haven't started running yet, large groups of hungry and grumpy bears are starting to form. I bought a bear bell to attach to my rucksack to let them know I was coming but it still feels uncomfortable walking in bear country. There are also cans of bear spray that you can buy but they're pretty expensive and you can't take them on planes so I'd have to buy a new one every couple of weeks.

Luckily a father and son (Bob and James) were heading up the trail so I tagged along with them. It was a fair stiff hike along a mountain path and to get to the glacier we had to go off the trail for about an hour but the 'unofficial' route had been well marked.

So after a great scramble through thick under growth and over rocks we got to the edge of the glacial moraine and then climbed or slid down the loose rock and onto the glacier. If you were very quiet you could hear water running and a bit of creaking. To get so close to an enormous body of ice felt amazing. Another couple turned up next to us put spikes on their wellies and hiked off to look for the ice caves. Rather them than me. It all looked pretty unstable and crevasses were opening up all the time. It was about a 12 mile hike all told and mostly on rough ground so shattered and starving by the Romeo got back. Dinner and beer needed!

Day trip to the Yukon

I was missing Canada so hired a car to drive up in to the Yukon for the day. Back through customs and then an amazingly scenic drive up the Klondike Highway and across the White Pass. This was stunningly beautiful countryside and vast.

Breakfast stop at Carcross an amazing little hamlet in the Carcross desert. There is a railway station, two stores and a coffee shop or too. Very tempted to stop for a fish with the locals off the bridge. There is work a plenty as mining is picking up so it's a very prosperous little town.

Pushing north again on the Klondike then turning onto the Alaska Highwzy and through Whitehorse to Takhini where I are hot springs recommended by my hosts in Skagway. The road to the hot springs was being dug up and re-laid as a dirt road!!! The springs are a bit like a run down Butlins outdoor pool and very hot. After sitting in the spring like a boiled egg I got out and slept in the shade for an hour.

Late lunch and a slow drive retracing my steps calling in at Miles Canyon on the way back. Dinner on the road so that I would go back through the White Pass in the evening and hopefully the bears would be out. I was rewarded with 2 black bears just back from the road and a wolf in the trees on a very remote stretch of road off the highway. Stopping at Carcross the ranger in the visitors centre confirmed that a lone wold had been spotted in the area.

12 hours on the road but I couldn't have packed much more in to that day....


The world's first hammer museum

Having had a few very quiet days in Skagway a day out was in order. Heading south on the fast ferry from Skagway for and hour to Haines a tiny little remote town on the opposite side of the fjord.

Haines can only fit one of the smaller cruise boats in at a time and is less tourist orientated and quieter. So had a busy day having breakfast, looking at mountains, having lunch, reading under a tree, visiting the hammer museum and then heading home.

Wednesday 25 July 2012

Open mike night in Skagway

Mr Skipper and I have been frequenting open mike night in Winchester for the last few months. Although not the usual Monday night effort I thought Tuesday night at the Red Onion was near enough. Skagway is full crazies so hopefully there'll be some quality acts on!!

As I'm typing this at the bar a cracking crazy is banging out a Tom Waitts number and he sounds pretty authentic!

Before coming out my hostel hosts here introduced me to a new delicay. Smoke salmon bellies. The salmon bellies are cut off and discarded by the fish processors. This discard finds it's way home to fish workers or friends of fish workers to be soaked in brine and smoked in the back yard. It was the most amazing salmon I've tasted and I have an Ollie Belly full of them :-)


STOP PRESS 1! A girl has just turned up with hula hoops. "Dear Jim. Please fix it for me to see hula hooping at an open mike night in Alaska! "

STOP PRESS 2! There is bloke playing in a 4 piece blue grass outfit but he's too crazy to be let in so he's playing outside and they have put his mike on the pavement and shut the door!



Tuesday 24 July 2012

Bears

It's been a long winter for the bears and the melt has been very late. The Salmon are only just starting to run do they are busy around the trails and pretty grumpy. I haven't been able to do as many of the hikes I'd hoped sax there are no groups going out on hikes and the rangers are advising against solo hikes to far out of town.

So I'm enjoying a quiet few days around town drinking coffee, chatting with hostlers and going to the pub.

Sunday 22 July 2012

Quick map check

This where I currently am....

Skagway

The city of Skagway was once the gateway to the Yukon in the gold rush days. It's a ghost town until after breakfast and the tour empty out. Then the main shopping street is out of its mind. Go across one block and it's empty and no one off the boats goes above about 7th Avenue. Go across another block and you hit the runway for the airport!! Perfect for a plane nerd. It would be hard to find a quieter or busier spot!

The ferry journey up here was amazing. Each time you turned around there was a view better than the one before. As for wildlife there were a few groups of Porpoise and two Orcas rounding up Salmon. They were off in the distance but looked pretty cool.



Saturday 21 July 2012

Map check.....

Quick map check before I go to bed........

Prince Rupert to Juneau

The Alaska Marine Highway Service runs ferries along the maritime region of Alaska. Used by locals and tourists alike the AMHS provides a vital link to the remote Alaskan communities only accessible by sea or air. I was told by an Alaskan passenger that close to 90% of communities have no road link.

The ferries are basic and functional and don't appear to have be fitted out since the 1980's. They must be subsidised as the crews are big. Teams of cleaners keep the boats spotlessly clean and a fully staffed kitchen prepares all the food from scratch. It was simple but hearty food.

I was showing off by having a cabin but a fair few people slept on sun loungers on the upper deck. The locals had done this before and had therma-rest mats and sleeping bags. I might try this next time I'm here :-)

Saw some hump back whales off in the distance and have booked a whale trio when I'm back in Juneau in a weeks time. I'm still rolling drunkenly after coming off the boat and I'm up again at 5.00am for another early start on the ferry to Skagway. Various pics below....

Thursday 19 July 2012

Here he is......

Quick map check. Still getting further away from home.......Oh! and the weather has changed....



Prince Rupert

Prince Rupert is a port on the British Columbia coast and the last stop in Canada before Alaska. It's a working town and not in the least bit pretty but it has a real pioneer or frontier land feel to it being so remote.

The flight from Vancouver was two hours long on a small turbo prop like the ones that chunter in and out of Southampton airport day and night. When the cloud cleared there was a great view of the coastal mountain ranges below.

Arriving at Prince Rupert is like no other airport experience. The airport at Prince Rupert in on the nearby Digby Island and is tiny. About the size of a flying club!! When the baggage comes off the plane a hatch opens in the wall of the baggage 'hall' and the bloke that unloaded it from the plane throws it through on to the floor. Sorry it slides gracefully down an aluminium chute, on to the floor!

Once the bags have been picked up you wait outside to board the airport busses. A small pantecnican arrives and the baggage handler loads your bags in to the van and you board the bus.

The baggage handler then boards the bus does a head count and sits down to drive the bus. Two busses and a van head for the Digby ferry and park up on deck for the short ride to the main island. There was just enough time to change the fan belt of the bus before leaving the ferry and a short drive to town where your bags are thrown from the back of the van on to the pavement at the back of the Highliner Inn. Certainly beats arriving at Terminal 5......

Wednesday 18 July 2012

Fish and chips and first swim in Pacific

Travel chores in the morning were followed by a short drive to the village of Steveston an old fishing village. The current fleet is about a quarter of what it was in its prime and the cannery buildings are either trendy restaurants or have been demolished for new apartments.

The reason for the drive down was Dave's fish and shop. I've never had salmon deep fried in batter before but it was ace and the chips were awesome. You'd have to go a long way in England to beat it.

Seeing as it was my last day in Vancouver it was time to go for a swim in English Bay which is technically the Pacific. So braving my fear of sand and a freezing sea I plunged in and bobbed happily in the surf.

I took a picnic down to the beach to enjoy the early evening sun. In the distance were sailing boats, ferries, cruise liners, super tankers and an unfortunate couple whose relationship had come to an end on the beach.

They had obviously started out to travel the world together but it hadn't worked out. Rather noisily the ruck sacks were emptied and in full view of a crowded beach they argued about who had possession of what. The most animated argument was about who would have the cat! Groups of young women started mimicking the girl's plaintive cries and groups of young men mocked his mumbled replies. I'm not sure if this was helping much!

The last I heard was the souls of flip flops running on the promenade and cries of "Stop him he's stolen my cat!".

So long Vancouver I'll see you briefly again at the end of August :-)

Tuesday 17 July 2012

Whistler

Had a great drive up to Whistler today with stops on the way at Shanon Falls and Squamish to see the rafts of logs already to be floated down to the sea. Whistler itself was pretty commercial and looked like most European ski resorts. Mountain bikers where everywhere riding the chair lift to the top of the trails and bombing down at break neck speed arriving back the bottom of the chair lift for next run.

After an ice cream the drive back down the valley was topped off with a stop to see the Brandywine Falls and the Eagle Capital if the world. The entire world eagle population numbered 1!! Still there was a great little bar for a cold one before heading home.

Sunday 15 July 2012

Grouse Mountain

Grouse Mountain sits at the back of North Vancouver and there is a steep trail to the summit that's known as The Grind. It's a 2,800 ft climb over 1.8 miles. The other name for it is the stair master.

It's a busy route at the best of times but I decided to do it on a Saturday morning. Sometimes I don't have the sense I was born with. To get there you need to get a bus from downtown. So far so good apart from not being able get on any of the busses that were already full downtown!

It was an hour and a half walk before I got anywhere getting on the bus. The world and his wife were on the trail and you were nose to tail all the way to the top. 2 hours with your nose up someone's sweaty butt!! Must really pick my hikes better next time.

Saturday 14 July 2012

Travel glamour...

It's time for bed but not before telling you about the glamorous side of travel. This being the application of antihistamine cream to the 20+ mosquito bites (the majority of which were through my shirt.....you should see the size of them!). The application of the athlete's foot cream and the hydrocortisone cream for the heat rash...... there is a drug store chain here called "Shoppers Drug Mart" and I must by now be a majority shareholder with all my purchases!

Day in Vancouver

It's a lot cooler here than the rest of Canada in more ways than one! Canada in general is a pretty laid back place but Vancouver is more laid back than the rest of Canada. Is the whole of the Western seaboard of North America like this?

Lots of walking and riding on the False Creak ferry. I took a wrong turn in Chinatown and ended up on the wrong side of Hastings and Main which is the Heroin capital of BBC (Beautiful British Columbia). Literally within a block the whole place changed. Burnt out buildings, people literally selling 'anything and everything' on the street. I don't think I've seen so many broken people in one place and so close to all the beautiful people of Vancouver!

So it was hands in pockets, no eye contact and head down until I felt ok again. A couple of blocks and some furtive glances later and I found myself in front of a Bulthaup kitchen showroom. I must be back in the middle classes again! If you're selling your body for drugs you can't afford a kitchen let alone a Bulthaup one.....safe!

There's a steam powered clock that looks like Big Ben and chimes the same chimes but with a steam whistle. A ferry must have docked and disgorged as 4,000 people decided to join me looking at the clock.

Long walk along the north shore to watch the seaplanes coming and going. I'd love to have a trip but not at a hundred bucks for 10 minutes!

Leggo whale on the sea front, some free music and more walking I was done. Random pics below.



Quick map check...

I appear to be here :-)

Friday 13 July 2012

Calgary to Vancouver

A shade over and hours flight over the Canadian Rockies and the difference between two cities couldn't be more stark! I know that Calgarians don't dress as Cowboys and Cowgirls all year round and the city is probably quite a different place when the Stampede isn't on but I'm pretty sure that Vancouver wouldn't hold a rodeo!

Vancouver feels altogether more cosmopolitan and certainly the area I'm in is a rich melting pot of races, cultures and lifestyles. It's pretty lively on the streets at night in a very friendly and fun way.

As I'm writing this in the hostel common room a group of young Scottish fiddle players are rehearsing for a show in Vancouver with the most amazing jigs and reels. Free gig :-)

Some photos of False Creek below which is at the bottom of the street from the hostel. I really lucked out here......

Thursday 12 July 2012

Inglewood nature reserve

Back at white trash HQ and recovering from a bit of a hike! In a southern suburb of Calgary was a little nature reserve that I walked to and bussed back. I was in need of some exercise and Calgary would have been hot and mad today!

I got my first proper introduction to Mosquitos near the water today. Any time you stop to look at something they decent and start sucking blood! Not allergic reactions yet!! I might have slapped them just in time.

The irritation of the mosquitos was worth it to see a couple of Bald Eagles fishing in the river, a pretty little brown job called a Cedar Waxwing and Prairie Dogs which look like a very cute pest. There were hundreds of them running riot, fighting, squeaking and burrowing all over the place. They look like plain brown Chipmunks. Very cute. Packing again for a short hop over the Rockies to Vancouver tomorrow.

Wednesday 11 July 2012

Calgary Stampede

The whole of Calgary is Stampede mad. It's the biggest date in the calendar. Everyone dresses in cowboy hats, boots, denim, big buckles and cowboy shirts. The locals assured me it goes back to normal after its all over!

I got up early. Queued for and hour to get into Stampede Park which is set up as a huge fun fair. In the hot morning sun I queued for another hour to get a ticket to the rodeo itself. This wasn't the big money day but there wasn't a spare seat in the house.

There were marching bands, fireworks and hula hoop performances before they got down to business. When the accrual rodeo started I was uncomfortable with the cruelty to the animals pretty quickly and couldn't stick it out to the end.

The first event was bare back riding. A horse is loaded into the chute. The rider mounts and secured on hand to the harness. A bucking strap is tightened around the horses mid section and the gate is opened. The terrified horse in obvious distress tries to kick the bucking strap off.

Next came the calf roping. A calf is released from a chute and runs across the arena chased by a cowboy on a horse. The calf is lasooed round the neck. The horse stops dead and when the rope tightens the calf is yanked to a halt flying off its feet and spinning in the air. Next it's hind legs are bound. once released the calf is chased out of the ring.

Before the break and the last I saw if the rodeo was steer wrestling. A steer is released from a chute presumed by to mounted cowboys. One keeps the steer on a straight line while the grabs the steers horn and jumps off the horse. Once off the clock doesn't stop until the prongs of the steers horns are stuck into the dirt which involves wrenching the steers head almost at 90 degrees to its body and twisting it off it's feet.

I'd had enough by then! It was good to go and see what it was all about but probably won't need to go again.

Tuesday 10 July 2012

Vocabulary

A quick lesson in vocabulary that I've picked up so far:

A Loonie is a dollar because it has a picture of a bird called a Loon on it and the new two dollar bit is a toonie. The confusing context being when and old mad bloke comes up to you on the high street and says "Can you spare a Loonie?".......

There seems to be a big craze for tattooing here and loads have people have been "inked". A tattoo at the bottom of a ladie's back is a tramp stamp. There you go, you learn something everyday!

A late pic of downtown Calgary in the distance and in the very far distance the Canadian Rockies.

Here I am.....

I've almost made it to Calgary. I goofed the booking of the current hotel. Due to the Stampede I was lucky to get this! I'm in a white trash motel at the end of the airport runway! All part of life's rich tapestry :-)