Having recovered the abandoned bike the evening before, all was set for the last day. The ferocious wind of the previous day had all but gone and the day promised to be dry wig even a little sunshine. Following the coast road, the last few hills of Sutherland proved to be pretty stiff especially when you are at the point when the finish can't come soon enough.
Once over the county border into Caithness the terrain changed pretty abruptly to gently rolling moorland. Just trying to keep the legs moving took more effort than before and I kept rushing rather than pacing myself and making steady progress. Thurso was midway between Strathy and John O'Groats and called in to sort out my train home. Assuming I could get me and the bike on the Friday night sleeper it was at first a bit of a blow to have to wait until Tuesday night. However, having come all this way it would be good to hang around a bit. With a hostel booked in Thurso and a bacon buttie inside it was time for the last 20 miles.
The sun came out and there was a slight possibility of sunburn! I filled my pockets up with peanuts and raisins and wine gums so that I didn't have to stop again. Setting off for the last little bit and impatience got the better of me and the pace was too high! Food and water got shoveled in while flying along the road as the miles counted down. The road never seemed to end and it really felt like the goal kept moving. I was busy cursing and swearing when I recognised the roof of the old John O'Groats hotel to the north of me. The last left turn and a down hill run in beautiful autumn sunshine and it was finished.
Saturday, 17 September 2011
Wednesday, 14 September 2011
Day 31 - Tongue to Strathy
Weather forecast looked OK this morning with a little wind growing in strength throughout the day. Possibility of showers later.
Well what actually happened was squall after squall blowing in off the sea which meant continuos heavy rain and wind. Lots of lovely exposed hills!
I made it to within about 2 miles of the B and B before taking refuge in a phone box as I couldn't stand up in the wind. The kind owners took pity on me and came to pick me up before shoveling hot soup down me to help me thaw out.
42 miles left to do and the wind should drop right off over night. So a quick run up the hill tomorrow to pick up the bike and I'll be hopefully all set for the grand finish.
Well what actually happened was squall after squall blowing in off the sea which meant continuos heavy rain and wind. Lots of lovely exposed hills!
I made it to within about 2 miles of the B and B before taking refuge in a phone box as I couldn't stand up in the wind. The kind owners took pity on me and came to pick me up before shoveling hot soup down me to help me thaw out.
42 miles left to do and the wind should drop right off over night. So a quick run up the hill tomorrow to pick up the bike and I'll be hopefully all set for the grand finish.
Day 30 - Crask to Tongue
My first taste of real Scots porridge was this morning for breakfast. Made with water and salt. It was a bit of a shock at first but it kind of made sense by the last spoon.
Heavy rain today and just enough wind to make things very chilly but a very straight forward and pretty ride from Crask up to Tongue. A couple of climbs to make it interesting and beautiful heather covered hills criss crossed by over flowing peaty streams. All I could hear at times was the burbbling of the braes.
A call now to all bird nerds! I saw a tiny little diving bird on the shore of a fresh water loch. It was all black apart from a white breast plate. It was diving along the shore line and when it flew off it flew about 6 inches off the surface of the water.
Had a cold afternoon waiting for the hostel to open but warm now.
Heavy rain today and just enough wind to make things very chilly but a very straight forward and pretty ride from Crask up to Tongue. A couple of climbs to make it interesting and beautiful heather covered hills criss crossed by over flowing peaty streams. All I could hear at times was the burbbling of the braes.
A call now to all bird nerds! I saw a tiny little diving bird on the shore of a fresh water loch. It was all black apart from a white breast plate. It was diving along the shore line and when it flew off it flew about 6 inches off the surface of the water.
Had a cold afternoon waiting for the hostel to open but warm now.
Day 29 - Rogart to Crask
Putting off the departure for as long as possible because of the rain has become a daily ritual and my ability to faff has become finely honed. With a couple of bowls of porridge inside me I was ready to hit the road with full wet weather gear. Sure enough the rain stopped and I was boiling so off it all came.
From Rogart there was a lovely run along the bottom of the glen and then a long and gentle climb before dropping down into Lairg. Bacon buttie and coffee and time for the last leg over remote forestry commission land to the village of Crask.
As you approach Crask there is the sign for Crask. Within 50 yards there is a house. Within another 50 yards the white painted Crask Inn and then the sign the other end of Crask. Big city!
If anyone is ever up this way a visit to the Crask Inn is a must. It is in the middle of nowhere and no power until the gennie gets started in the afternoon. Kai and Mike the owners are the most welcoming hosts and you get introduced to everyone when you arrive including the three sheep dogs.
Seeing as the nearest other village was 12 miles in either direction I had dinner at the inn. Smoked salmon, steak and ale pie and black currant sponge. Absolutely stuffed by the end of it.
From Rogart there was a lovely run along the bottom of the glen and then a long and gentle climb before dropping down into Lairg. Bacon buttie and coffee and time for the last leg over remote forestry commission land to the village of Crask.
As you approach Crask there is the sign for Crask. Within 50 yards there is a house. Within another 50 yards the white painted Crask Inn and then the sign the other end of Crask. Big city!
If anyone is ever up this way a visit to the Crask Inn is a must. It is in the middle of nowhere and no power until the gennie gets started in the afternoon. Kai and Mike the owners are the most welcoming hosts and you get introduced to everyone when you arrive including the three sheep dogs.
Seeing as the nearest other village was 12 miles in either direction I had dinner at the inn. Smoked salmon, steak and ale pie and black currant sponge. Absolutely stuffed by the end of it.
Monday, 12 September 2011
Day 28 - Alness to Rogart
Tail wind again so flew along the A9 which was pretty quiet. So far the storm hasn't been too bad although along the West coast and by the Isle of Skye it has been pretty bad.
Left turn off the A9 at something called the "Mound" and then a straight run along a small Glen and into Rogart. The hostel tonight is next to Rogart station and is in a series of railway carriage. It's a really great spot and I'm definately going to come back one day.
If weather is ok I'll be finishing on Thursday 15th and on the sleeper from Inverness on Friday the 16th. Fingers crossed I'll be in my own bed on Saturday night
Left turn off the A9 at something called the "Mound" and then a straight run along a small Glen and into Rogart. The hostel tonight is next to Rogart station and is in a series of railway carriage. It's a really great spot and I'm definately going to come back one day.
If weather is ok I'll be finishing on Thursday 15th and on the sleeper from Inverness on Friday the 16th. Fingers crossed I'll be in my own bed on Saturday night
Sunday, 11 September 2011
Day 27 - Lewiston to Alness
Had a bit of a shock this morning with a really stiff climb from Drumnadrochit over the hill to Beauly. When you're not expecting a hill they seem to be longer and steeper than anything done before.
Once that little bugger of a hill was out of the way it was pretty much a down hill run into the village of Beauly. Sitting in the cafe over a bacon and egg butty I had a really strong sense of deja vue. This time it wasn't deja vue, I'd eaten in the sane cafe about 2 years ago when I was driving down the Great Glen to Oban. It wasn't until I was eating my butty that I remembered.
After re-fueling at Beauly I followed the road through Muir of Ord up to Dingwall battering against a head wind pretty much all the way. The battering continued through the town and then along the side of the water to join up with the A9 and into Alness.
After cleaning up there was a quick trip down to the waters edge to look at the oil rigs parked in the firth. Curry, beer and bed were calling. If course Saturday night is disco night and my room luckily right over the disco. Major whinge until I got a different room.
Once that little bugger of a hill was out of the way it was pretty much a down hill run into the village of Beauly. Sitting in the cafe over a bacon and egg butty I had a really strong sense of deja vue. This time it wasn't deja vue, I'd eaten in the sane cafe about 2 years ago when I was driving down the Great Glen to Oban. It wasn't until I was eating my butty that I remembered.
After re-fueling at Beauly I followed the road through Muir of Ord up to Dingwall battering against a head wind pretty much all the way. The battering continued through the town and then along the side of the water to join up with the A9 and into Alness.
After cleaning up there was a quick trip down to the waters edge to look at the oil rigs parked in the firth. Curry, beer and bed were calling. If course Saturday night is disco night and my room luckily right over the disco. Major whinge until I got a different room.
Friday, 9 September 2011
Day 26 - Invergarry to Lewiston
The route was easy again today, just following the A82 along the loch side to Lewiston near Drumnadrochit.
Obviously the sunshine of yesterday came at a price and that was for rain today. It belted down for the whole time I was riding and didn't let up until I had finished for the day! Bugger! The wind has also swung round to a north easterly and right into my face. Although only 25 miles I was just battered by the wind which made it feel like I've done 40 miles. All cleaned up and settled in at the hostel called the Loch Ness Back packers. Anyway, time for a bit of shut eye before my tea. Night all!
Obviously the sunshine of yesterday came at a price and that was for rain today. It belted down for the whole time I was riding and didn't let up until I had finished for the day! Bugger! The wind has also swung round to a north easterly and right into my face. Although only 25 miles I was just battered by the wind which made it feel like I've done 40 miles. All cleaned up and settled in at the hostel called the Loch Ness Back packers. Anyway, time for a bit of shut eye before my tea. Night all!
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