Having recovered the abandoned bike the evening before, all was set for the last day. The ferocious wind of the previous day had all but gone and the day promised to be dry wig even a little sunshine. Following the coast road, the last few hills of Sutherland proved to be pretty stiff especially when you are at the point when the finish can't come soon enough.
Once over the county border into Caithness the terrain changed pretty abruptly to gently rolling moorland. Just trying to keep the legs moving took more effort than before and I kept rushing rather than pacing myself and making steady progress. Thurso was midway between Strathy and John O'Groats and called in to sort out my train home. Assuming I could get me and the bike on the Friday night sleeper it was at first a bit of a blow to have to wait until Tuesday night. However, having come all this way it would be good to hang around a bit. With a hostel booked in Thurso and a bacon buttie inside it was time for the last 20 miles.
The sun came out and there was a slight possibility of sunburn! I filled my pockets up with peanuts and raisins and wine gums so that I didn't have to stop again. Setting off for the last little bit and impatience got the better of me and the pace was too high! Food and water got shoveled in while flying along the road as the miles counted down. The road never seemed to end and it really felt like the goal kept moving. I was busy cursing and swearing when I recognised the roof of the old John O'Groats hotel to the north of me. The last left turn and a down hill run in beautiful autumn sunshine and it was finished.
Saturday 17 September 2011
Wednesday 14 September 2011
Day 31 - Tongue to Strathy
Weather forecast looked OK this morning with a little wind growing in strength throughout the day. Possibility of showers later.
Well what actually happened was squall after squall blowing in off the sea which meant continuos heavy rain and wind. Lots of lovely exposed hills!
I made it to within about 2 miles of the B and B before taking refuge in a phone box as I couldn't stand up in the wind. The kind owners took pity on me and came to pick me up before shoveling hot soup down me to help me thaw out.
42 miles left to do and the wind should drop right off over night. So a quick run up the hill tomorrow to pick up the bike and I'll be hopefully all set for the grand finish.
Well what actually happened was squall after squall blowing in off the sea which meant continuos heavy rain and wind. Lots of lovely exposed hills!
I made it to within about 2 miles of the B and B before taking refuge in a phone box as I couldn't stand up in the wind. The kind owners took pity on me and came to pick me up before shoveling hot soup down me to help me thaw out.
42 miles left to do and the wind should drop right off over night. So a quick run up the hill tomorrow to pick up the bike and I'll be hopefully all set for the grand finish.
Day 30 - Crask to Tongue
My first taste of real Scots porridge was this morning for breakfast. Made with water and salt. It was a bit of a shock at first but it kind of made sense by the last spoon.
Heavy rain today and just enough wind to make things very chilly but a very straight forward and pretty ride from Crask up to Tongue. A couple of climbs to make it interesting and beautiful heather covered hills criss crossed by over flowing peaty streams. All I could hear at times was the burbbling of the braes.
A call now to all bird nerds! I saw a tiny little diving bird on the shore of a fresh water loch. It was all black apart from a white breast plate. It was diving along the shore line and when it flew off it flew about 6 inches off the surface of the water.
Had a cold afternoon waiting for the hostel to open but warm now.
Heavy rain today and just enough wind to make things very chilly but a very straight forward and pretty ride from Crask up to Tongue. A couple of climbs to make it interesting and beautiful heather covered hills criss crossed by over flowing peaty streams. All I could hear at times was the burbbling of the braes.
A call now to all bird nerds! I saw a tiny little diving bird on the shore of a fresh water loch. It was all black apart from a white breast plate. It was diving along the shore line and when it flew off it flew about 6 inches off the surface of the water.
Had a cold afternoon waiting for the hostel to open but warm now.
Day 29 - Rogart to Crask
Putting off the departure for as long as possible because of the rain has become a daily ritual and my ability to faff has become finely honed. With a couple of bowls of porridge inside me I was ready to hit the road with full wet weather gear. Sure enough the rain stopped and I was boiling so off it all came.
From Rogart there was a lovely run along the bottom of the glen and then a long and gentle climb before dropping down into Lairg. Bacon buttie and coffee and time for the last leg over remote forestry commission land to the village of Crask.
As you approach Crask there is the sign for Crask. Within 50 yards there is a house. Within another 50 yards the white painted Crask Inn and then the sign the other end of Crask. Big city!
If anyone is ever up this way a visit to the Crask Inn is a must. It is in the middle of nowhere and no power until the gennie gets started in the afternoon. Kai and Mike the owners are the most welcoming hosts and you get introduced to everyone when you arrive including the three sheep dogs.
Seeing as the nearest other village was 12 miles in either direction I had dinner at the inn. Smoked salmon, steak and ale pie and black currant sponge. Absolutely stuffed by the end of it.
From Rogart there was a lovely run along the bottom of the glen and then a long and gentle climb before dropping down into Lairg. Bacon buttie and coffee and time for the last leg over remote forestry commission land to the village of Crask.
As you approach Crask there is the sign for Crask. Within 50 yards there is a house. Within another 50 yards the white painted Crask Inn and then the sign the other end of Crask. Big city!
If anyone is ever up this way a visit to the Crask Inn is a must. It is in the middle of nowhere and no power until the gennie gets started in the afternoon. Kai and Mike the owners are the most welcoming hosts and you get introduced to everyone when you arrive including the three sheep dogs.
Seeing as the nearest other village was 12 miles in either direction I had dinner at the inn. Smoked salmon, steak and ale pie and black currant sponge. Absolutely stuffed by the end of it.
Monday 12 September 2011
Day 28 - Alness to Rogart
Tail wind again so flew along the A9 which was pretty quiet. So far the storm hasn't been too bad although along the West coast and by the Isle of Skye it has been pretty bad.
Left turn off the A9 at something called the "Mound" and then a straight run along a small Glen and into Rogart. The hostel tonight is next to Rogart station and is in a series of railway carriage. It's a really great spot and I'm definately going to come back one day.
If weather is ok I'll be finishing on Thursday 15th and on the sleeper from Inverness on Friday the 16th. Fingers crossed I'll be in my own bed on Saturday night
Left turn off the A9 at something called the "Mound" and then a straight run along a small Glen and into Rogart. The hostel tonight is next to Rogart station and is in a series of railway carriage. It's a really great spot and I'm definately going to come back one day.
If weather is ok I'll be finishing on Thursday 15th and on the sleeper from Inverness on Friday the 16th. Fingers crossed I'll be in my own bed on Saturday night
Sunday 11 September 2011
Day 27 - Lewiston to Alness
Had a bit of a shock this morning with a really stiff climb from Drumnadrochit over the hill to Beauly. When you're not expecting a hill they seem to be longer and steeper than anything done before.
Once that little bugger of a hill was out of the way it was pretty much a down hill run into the village of Beauly. Sitting in the cafe over a bacon and egg butty I had a really strong sense of deja vue. This time it wasn't deja vue, I'd eaten in the sane cafe about 2 years ago when I was driving down the Great Glen to Oban. It wasn't until I was eating my butty that I remembered.
After re-fueling at Beauly I followed the road through Muir of Ord up to Dingwall battering against a head wind pretty much all the way. The battering continued through the town and then along the side of the water to join up with the A9 and into Alness.
After cleaning up there was a quick trip down to the waters edge to look at the oil rigs parked in the firth. Curry, beer and bed were calling. If course Saturday night is disco night and my room luckily right over the disco. Major whinge until I got a different room.
Once that little bugger of a hill was out of the way it was pretty much a down hill run into the village of Beauly. Sitting in the cafe over a bacon and egg butty I had a really strong sense of deja vue. This time it wasn't deja vue, I'd eaten in the sane cafe about 2 years ago when I was driving down the Great Glen to Oban. It wasn't until I was eating my butty that I remembered.
After re-fueling at Beauly I followed the road through Muir of Ord up to Dingwall battering against a head wind pretty much all the way. The battering continued through the town and then along the side of the water to join up with the A9 and into Alness.
After cleaning up there was a quick trip down to the waters edge to look at the oil rigs parked in the firth. Curry, beer and bed were calling. If course Saturday night is disco night and my room luckily right over the disco. Major whinge until I got a different room.
Friday 9 September 2011
Day 26 - Invergarry to Lewiston
The route was easy again today, just following the A82 along the loch side to Lewiston near Drumnadrochit.
Obviously the sunshine of yesterday came at a price and that was for rain today. It belted down for the whole time I was riding and didn't let up until I had finished for the day! Bugger! The wind has also swung round to a north easterly and right into my face. Although only 25 miles I was just battered by the wind which made it feel like I've done 40 miles. All cleaned up and settled in at the hostel called the Loch Ness Back packers. Anyway, time for a bit of shut eye before my tea. Night all!
Obviously the sunshine of yesterday came at a price and that was for rain today. It belted down for the whole time I was riding and didn't let up until I had finished for the day! Bugger! The wind has also swung round to a north easterly and right into my face. Although only 25 miles I was just battered by the wind which made it feel like I've done 40 miles. All cleaned up and settled in at the hostel called the Loch Ness Back packers. Anyway, time for a bit of shut eye before my tea. Night all!
Thursday 8 September 2011
Day 25 - Glen Coe to Invergarry
After my sort of day off yesterday I was raring to go!
With a South Westerly behind me I flew into Fort William covering the 17 miles in about an hour and ten minutes. Pretty quick for me. Still no sign of the top of Ben Nevis. I've been here three bloody times now and not a sight!
On the way into Fort William I bumped into a cyclist who was on his way to the west coast to tour round and I was complaining about the A82. He suggested that I go left just after Fort William to Banavie then right at Banavie to Clunes. At Clunes I could then take a cycle path to Invergarry. Perfect I'll do that.
After picking up some supplies I gooses the new route and was treated to a fantastic run on quiet roads that had magnificent views and were just hilly enough to be interesting. At Gerlochy the swing bridge was just opening to let the 'Vic 32' through. Just found out that the Vic 32 is the last sea worthy 'Clyde Puffer'. Clyde Puffers were coastal steamers that used to ship freight all around coastal Scotland and the Islands.
After the excitement at Gerlochy I didn't think the day could possibly get any better. However, the 'cycle path' tip from random cyclist bloke turned out to be a Forestry Comission mountain bike trail/logging haul road!
Turning the front suspension back on I rattled over 10 miles of stoned and cinders cursing the random cycling man! It was great fun bur hard work and a little bit hairy at times going down hill. Once of the forestry road I could follow the Great Glen Way until I had to rejoin the A82 a couple of miles short of the hostel.
A great independent hostel called the Invergarry Lodge awaited. Beer food and bed after what was probably one of the best days cycling I have ever had. Stuff that day dreams are made of....
With a South Westerly behind me I flew into Fort William covering the 17 miles in about an hour and ten minutes. Pretty quick for me. Still no sign of the top of Ben Nevis. I've been here three bloody times now and not a sight!
On the way into Fort William I bumped into a cyclist who was on his way to the west coast to tour round and I was complaining about the A82. He suggested that I go left just after Fort William to Banavie then right at Banavie to Clunes. At Clunes I could then take a cycle path to Invergarry. Perfect I'll do that.
After picking up some supplies I gooses the new route and was treated to a fantastic run on quiet roads that had magnificent views and were just hilly enough to be interesting. At Gerlochy the swing bridge was just opening to let the 'Vic 32' through. Just found out that the Vic 32 is the last sea worthy 'Clyde Puffer'. Clyde Puffers were coastal steamers that used to ship freight all around coastal Scotland and the Islands.
After the excitement at Gerlochy I didn't think the day could possibly get any better. However, the 'cycle path' tip from random cyclist bloke turned out to be a Forestry Comission mountain bike trail/logging haul road!
Turning the front suspension back on I rattled over 10 miles of stoned and cinders cursing the random cycling man! It was great fun bur hard work and a little bit hairy at times going down hill. Once of the forestry road I could follow the Great Glen Way until I had to rejoin the A82 a couple of miles short of the hostel.
A great independent hostel called the Invergarry Lodge awaited. Beer food and bed after what was probably one of the best days cycling I have ever had. Stuff that day dreams are made of....
Day 24 - Kingshouse Hotel to Glen Coe
The wind had dropped and the rain was restricted to the occasional heavy shower. Alli's Taxi arrived early and we headed back up to the Kingshouse Hotel for operation bike recovery!
Whilst the wind had dropped it was still pretty wild and the wind was constant rather than gusting which made the bike easier to control. Having left the panniers back at the hostel there was less to catch the wind so whilst hard and a tiny bit scary the peddle back to the hostel took about an hour and half.
Between showers I wandered into Glen Coe village for a bite to eat and to get supplies for tonight. More pasta to bulk up for tomorrow. The first part of the ride tomorrow will be West and into the wind but once the corner is turned at Corran there should be a good South Westerly on my tail. That's the plan anyway!
Whilst the wind had dropped it was still pretty wild and the wind was constant rather than gusting which made the bike easier to control. Having left the panniers back at the hostel there was less to catch the wind so whilst hard and a tiny bit scary the peddle back to the hostel took about an hour and half.
Between showers I wandered into Glen Coe village for a bite to eat and to get supplies for tonight. More pasta to bulk up for tomorrow. The first part of the ride tomorrow will be West and into the wind but once the corner is turned at Corran there should be a good South Westerly on my tail. That's the plan anyway!
Day 23 - Crianlarich to Glen Coe
The weather wasn't great leaving Crianlarich but could cope with a bit of wind and rain. The road was good but quite busy and there was a steady climb up to Rannoch Moor which was the most exposed leg of the trip.
The navigation was very simple. Just following the A82 through Tyndrum to Glen Coe.
Steady rain built to heavy rain and the gentle tail wind developed into a side on gale from the West. A couple of times I had to get off and hang on to the bike to stop it blowing away and when I reached the Kings House Hotel I knew I had to call it a day.
No rooms at the inn but luckily there were a load of people heading to the youth hostel at Glen Coe so we shared a taxi. Tomorrow's task is to recover my bike from the laundry room of the hotel and get it back to the hostel. Lazy day at the hostel tomorrow and then start again on Thursday.
I managed to call all my hostels and B and B's and have pushed everything on a day.
The navigation was very simple. Just following the A82 through Tyndrum to Glen Coe.
Steady rain built to heavy rain and the gentle tail wind developed into a side on gale from the West. A couple of times I had to get off and hang on to the bike to stop it blowing away and when I reached the Kings House Hotel I knew I had to call it a day.
No rooms at the inn but luckily there were a load of people heading to the youth hostel at Glen Coe so we shared a taxi. Tomorrow's task is to recover my bike from the laundry room of the hotel and get it back to the hostel. Lazy day at the hostel tomorrow and then start again on Thursday.
I managed to call all my hostels and B and B's and have pushed everything on a day.
Tuesday 6 September 2011
Day 22 - Loch Lomond to Crianlarich
Easy navigation again today as the first part of the day was following the West Lomond cycle path along the loch edge as far as Tarbet and then joining the A82 to Crianlarich. Sun all the way and beautiful views of the loch and Ben Lomond.
It was a relatively east ride until the climb up towards Crianlarich. After checking in to the hostel I was getting some essentials from the local shop when I recognised an old chap who was in my room last night. He snored like snoring you have never heard before and absolutely stank. There was no way I could do another night in the same room as him. I ran past him up the hill to the hostel and pleaded with the girl on reception to put him in a room on his own. Luckily the hostel was quiet so she could move things around. I felt really mean but it took me all day to get the smell out of my nose.
It was a relatively east ride until the climb up towards Crianlarich. After checking in to the hostel I was getting some essentials from the local shop when I recognised an old chap who was in my room last night. He snored like snoring you have never heard before and absolutely stank. There was no way I could do another night in the same room as him. I ran past him up the hill to the hostel and pleaded with the girl on reception to put him in a room on his own. Luckily the hostel was quiet so she could move things around. I felt really mean but it took me all day to get the smell out of my nose.
Monday 5 September 2011
Day 21 - Glasgow to Loch Lomond
Route today was pretty easy following the cycle route N7 from the Scottish Exhibition Centre on the banks of the Clyde to Dumbarton. This was a great mix of raised a disused raised railway line and canal tow path. All of a sudden you find yourself in an old over grown station albeit just the platform being all that is left.
Once I got to Dumbarton I headed on the A814 to Helensburgh. I found my way to the Glasgow School of Art building by McIntosh the day before and, fully in line with my run of luck, it was covered in scaffolding. Today was a chance to re-dress this by visiting Hill House. The McIntosh house built for WW Blackie the publishing magnate.
Perched on the slopes of a hill overlooking Helensburgh and the Clyde the house is modest but one of the finest examples of domestic Architecture. The pebble dashed exterior appears incongruous from it's association with the later exploitation of this finish on a multitude of suburban bungaloids up and down the land. Copious treatise have been written about this house and I had poured over them as a student. This detour more than made up for the scaffolded School of Art building.
To end the day I was booked into the youth hostel on the shores of Loch Lomond so I cut across from Heleneburgh to Duck Bay and was treated to a night in another castle. Built in 1910 it is a gloriously ostentatious take on the traditional baronial Scottish castle. Sumptuous inside with attendant stags heads and tartan carpets the castle was a gift from the USAF as far as I could make out. Converted into a hostel with funds from the American Trades Union Congress. Thank you very much!
Once I got to Dumbarton I headed on the A814 to Helensburgh. I found my way to the Glasgow School of Art building by McIntosh the day before and, fully in line with my run of luck, it was covered in scaffolding. Today was a chance to re-dress this by visiting Hill House. The McIntosh house built for WW Blackie the publishing magnate.
Perched on the slopes of a hill overlooking Helensburgh and the Clyde the house is modest but one of the finest examples of domestic Architecture. The pebble dashed exterior appears incongruous from it's association with the later exploitation of this finish on a multitude of suburban bungaloids up and down the land. Copious treatise have been written about this house and I had poured over them as a student. This detour more than made up for the scaffolded School of Art building.
To end the day I was booked into the youth hostel on the shores of Loch Lomond so I cut across from Heleneburgh to Duck Bay and was treated to a night in another castle. Built in 1910 it is a gloriously ostentatious take on the traditional baronial Scottish castle. Sumptuous inside with attendant stags heads and tartan carpets the castle was a gift from the USAF as far as I could make out. Converted into a hostel with funds from the American Trades Union Congress. Thank you very much!
Saturday 3 September 2011
Day 20 - Abington to Glasgow
Very straightforward navigation again as I was following the N74 cycle route through:
Happendon
Lesmahagow
Blackwood
Hamilton
Cambuslang
Dalmarnock
Then into the city centre. I wasn't looking forward to the ride through the city centre as I'd got so used to pretty much clear roads over the last few days. Together with the fact that previous experience in towns in North Wales had been pretty poor!
Hats off to the drivers of Glasgow as everyone kept their distance and I didn't get cut up once. Not a single horn blast and no verbal abuse. All in all it was a great ride. The route in was pretty quiet being a Saturday and not many people about. Celtic were either not playing or playing away maybe.
As soon as I hit the city centre it was heaving and after having been cycling through pretty sparsely populated areas of the country Glasgow was a real shock!
Supper at the hostel then a stroll into town to sample the night life before another early night. Forty odd miles today so feeling it a bit this afternoon.
Happendon
Lesmahagow
Blackwood
Hamilton
Cambuslang
Dalmarnock
Then into the city centre. I wasn't looking forward to the ride through the city centre as I'd got so used to pretty much clear roads over the last few days. Together with the fact that previous experience in towns in North Wales had been pretty poor!
Hats off to the drivers of Glasgow as everyone kept their distance and I didn't get cut up once. Not a single horn blast and no verbal abuse. All in all it was a great ride. The route in was pretty quiet being a Saturday and not many people about. Celtic were either not playing or playing away maybe.
As soon as I hit the city centre it was heaving and after having been cycling through pretty sparsely populated areas of the country Glasgow was a real shock!
Supper at the hostel then a stroll into town to sample the night life before another early night. Forty odd miles today so feeling it a bit this afternoon.
Friday 2 September 2011
Day 19 - Lockerbie to Abington
Not a great deal to report today as the route was just following the cycle route N74 from Lockerbie to Abington. The village is tiny with a hotel and a shop. That's about it. The road and cycle route were pretty good so my 35 miles was done by quarter to two. Afternoon spent eating, dozing and planning the route through the Highlands.
Carbidale Castle youth hostel is closed! Boo! However, I got a tip from a cyclist I met at Clun Mill hostel and there is a sleeper carriage parked at Rogart station (a working station) and this is a hostel. I'm booked there instead. The other great bonus was getting into the Crask Inn. Probably one of the remotest places I'll be staying. Very excited about that.
40 miles in to Glasgow tommorow so need to get my head down!
Carbidale Castle youth hostel is closed! Boo! However, I got a tip from a cyclist I met at Clun Mill hostel and there is a sleeper carriage parked at Rogart station (a working station) and this is a hostel. I'm booked there instead. The other great bonus was getting into the Crask Inn. Probably one of the remotest places I'll be staying. Very excited about that.
40 miles in to Glasgow tommorow so need to get my head down!
Thursday 1 September 2011
Day 18 - Carlisle to Lockerbie
It was high time that I had a rest day today so only 25 mikes on the clock. Uber simple routing for the next few days.
North out of Carlisle on the A7.
Take a left towards Parkhouse.
Follow cycle route N74 which runs alongside the M74 on the minor roads right into Glasgow. Being relatively flat the cycling was good and had a little bit of sun today.
Arriving at Gretna was very excited to be crossing the border into Scotland. Must be nearly there! I got my photo taken by another End to Ender. They had had taken 6 days! Ouch!!
Arriving early it was time to do something other than washing, route planning or eating. I visited the Lockerbie memorial garden which felt quite pertinent with all the events in Libya. At the far end of the Lockerbie cemetery there is a modest but immaculately kept garden with a list of all those who died. Individual families have been allowed to mount there own stones as has Pan Am.
Having heard all about this on the news many years ago it was moving to read the personal inscriptions to those who had been lost. Whole families and children as young as two months. Being so close to Christmas the excitement about seeing the relative that was on that flight would have been huge. Then to have them taken away must have been so cruel.
North out of Carlisle on the A7.
Take a left towards Parkhouse.
Follow cycle route N74 which runs alongside the M74 on the minor roads right into Glasgow. Being relatively flat the cycling was good and had a little bit of sun today.
Arriving at Gretna was very excited to be crossing the border into Scotland. Must be nearly there! I got my photo taken by another End to Ender. They had had taken 6 days! Ouch!!
Arriving early it was time to do something other than washing, route planning or eating. I visited the Lockerbie memorial garden which felt quite pertinent with all the events in Libya. At the far end of the Lockerbie cemetery there is a modest but immaculately kept garden with a list of all those who died. Individual families have been allowed to mount there own stones as has Pan Am.
Having heard all about this on the news many years ago it was moving to read the personal inscriptions to those who had been lost. Whole families and children as young as two months. Being so close to Christmas the excitement about seeing the relative that was on that flight would have been huge. Then to have them taken away must have been so cruel.
Day 17 - Windermere to Carlisle
Well the days and the miles are stacking up now and I'm into the 'borders' region. Lots of Roman roads round here. They must have been built to supply the forts along Hadrians Wall and Carlisle must have been one of the northern most towns of the Holy Roman Empire. Well enough about ancient history what about my backside, knees and elbow.....,I hear you ask. Since you mention it they are OK, surprisingly OK and really painful respectively.
Route today was:
Windermere
Straight into the awesome climb up and over the Kirkstone Pass. Jon Skipper, I would like to thank you from the bottom of my bottom for that suggestion. Ouch! But well worth it.
Down hill to Patterdale......feet off the pedals, legs out.....weeee! SHEEP! Brakes!
Left to Dockray. Just before the turn to Dockray I had a really clear view along Ullswater which was beautifully flat and calm. In the distance was the front on silhouette of a WW2 fighter about 200 meters off the water and the amazing sound of it's engine. I obviously stopped as it banked and climbed above me to clear Helvelyn. It had USAF insignia and I'm pretty sure it was a Mustang. Very excited!
Carry on up hill then right to Matterdale.
Cross the A66 to Greystoke.
Then back roads to Carlisle through:
Blencow
Unthank
Hutton End
Low Braithwaite
Stoneraise
Durdar then Carlisle.
I stopped a little breather along the road and was treated to a couple of fast jets playing tag overhead but the best of all was a low flying (it felt like I could see the rivets) military transport plane. It flew right overhead at a few hundred meters.
The less said about the YHA at Carlisle the better. Save to say.....give it a miss!
Route today was:
Windermere
Straight into the awesome climb up and over the Kirkstone Pass. Jon Skipper, I would like to thank you from the bottom of my bottom for that suggestion. Ouch! But well worth it.
Down hill to Patterdale......feet off the pedals, legs out.....weeee! SHEEP! Brakes!
Left to Dockray. Just before the turn to Dockray I had a really clear view along Ullswater which was beautifully flat and calm. In the distance was the front on silhouette of a WW2 fighter about 200 meters off the water and the amazing sound of it's engine. I obviously stopped as it banked and climbed above me to clear Helvelyn. It had USAF insignia and I'm pretty sure it was a Mustang. Very excited!
Carry on up hill then right to Matterdale.
Cross the A66 to Greystoke.
Then back roads to Carlisle through:
Blencow
Unthank
Hutton End
Low Braithwaite
Stoneraise
Durdar then Carlisle.
I stopped a little breather along the road and was treated to a couple of fast jets playing tag overhead but the best of all was a low flying (it felt like I could see the rivets) military transport plane. It flew right overhead at a few hundred meters.
The less said about the YHA at Carlisle the better. Save to say.....give it a miss!
Day 16 - Slaidburn to Windermere
The route is pretty straightforward so we'll get that out of the way. The day was far from straight forward:
Slaidburn
High Bentham
Low Bentham
Right turn to Wrayton
Straight over to Kirkby Londsdsle
A590 to Kendal
A591 to Windermere
Setting off from Slaidburn I knew there was a climb but the forest of Bowland is on a serious hill. The weather was against me too with a vicious head wind and driving rain. I had pretty much all my layers on and my waterproofs and I was still cold. Stopping to concede that I needed gloves and rummaging in the pocket only to find two right hand gloves. No matter how I tried to wear the right hand glove on my left I couldn't operate the brake so had only mits on. In the end it took two and a half hours to go 11 miles.
After a restorative bacon butty in High Bentham there were still 28 miles to go and it was one o'clock. This was going to be a long day for me.
The rest of the day was a hard slog in icy rain and with no views of the Lakeland fells I just had to peddle. The only thing that kept me going over the last few miles was the thought of a hot shower and dinner at the hostel. Of course when I arrived there had been a power cut all day. No food and no shower. After losing my temper with the chap on reception I walked back down the hill to the pub at the bottom. I must have absolutely stunk!
After a long drag back up the hill full of burger and Blue Bird ale I apologised, showered and went to bed!
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