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Saturday, 30 April 2011
Monday, 18 April 2011
Travel stats.....
I've been back for over a week now and my back pack is still sitting on the spare bed with stuff spewing out of it onto the floor. I really need to tidy this up in readiness for the next trip. In true "i'm going to do everything possible to avoid doing what I really should do" style, I have decided to work out roughly how many miles I covered while traveling round Scandanavia. It is broken down into transport modes and listed by order of magnitude:
Train - 2,535 miles.
Plane - 2,218 miles.
Boat - 310 miles.
Misc (Tube, bus and tram) - say 75.
Approximate total in 18 days - 5,138 miles......Phew!
Right, I had better see to that rucksack and then start booking up for Austria, Czech Republic, Poland, Germany and the Benelux region which all kicks of around about 9th May......
Train - 2,535 miles.
Plane - 2,218 miles.
Boat - 310 miles.
Misc (Tube, bus and tram) - say 75.
Approximate total in 18 days - 5,138 miles......Phew!
Right, I had better see to that rucksack and then start booking up for Austria, Czech Republic, Poland, Germany and the Benelux region which all kicks of around about 9th May......
Wednesday, 6 April 2011
Top of the tower!
The Church of our Saviour has amongst other things a gilded spire in the form of a spiral with an external stair that goes right to the golden sphere on the top. This was way too tempting to miss.
The first set of wooden stairs takes you past the clock mechanism and up through the bell tower. A final timber ladder takes you to a door just wide enough to squeeze through and out on to the bottom of the spiral stair.
So now the fun starts climbing the spiral stair outside in the wind which was pretty gusty. I made it too the top with very shaky legs. The view was great and photos will be on fb. In the meantime, photos of the expedition.
The tower.
The stairs inside.
The stair outside.
It's a long way down.
Top of the tower.
The first set of wooden stairs takes you past the clock mechanism and up through the bell tower. A final timber ladder takes you to a door just wide enough to squeeze through and out on to the bottom of the spiral stair.
So now the fun starts climbing the spiral stair outside in the wind which was pretty gusty. I made it too the top with very shaky legs. The view was great and photos will be on fb. In the meantime, photos of the expedition.
The tower.
The stairs inside.
The stair outside.
It's a long way down.
Top of the tower.
Tuesday, 5 April 2011
On the way to the nature reserve.....
As luck would have it, the nature reserve just happened to be a 10 minute walk from the new town of Orestad (the O should have a slash through it) which has been master planned by Daniel Liebeskind. Oh! well so much for the afternoon off culture :-)
These are a few snaps of what is going on there:
I'm guessing this has got something to do with Mr L.
Lastly, there was a bit of public art. A monument to cutting your own head off! A definate own goal!
These are a few snaps of what is going on there:
I'm guessing this has got something to do with Mr L.
Lastly, there was a bit of public art. A monument to cutting your own head off! A definate own goal!
Louisiana.
Louisiana in the suburban town of Humlebaek has got one of the most amazing collections of modern art. Set in a rambling multiple level series of buildings, the permanent collections have works from some of the most influential artists in the world.
However, a great surprise was the Picasso exhibition. A really comprehensive collection of works brought together in one place. Some really remarkable paintings that kept me happy for ages. I wasn't aware quite how obsessed he was with the female form. There were some very graphic works that left nothing to the imagination shall we say!
Imagine my surprise when I turned the corner to find a group of primary school children sitting on the floor in front of a particularly graphic painting, having an art history lesson!
No photos from any where in the gallery i'm afraid, they were very strict about no cameras in the gallery.
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However, a great surprise was the Picasso exhibition. A really comprehensive collection of works brought together in one place. Some really remarkable paintings that kept me happy for ages. I wasn't aware quite how obsessed he was with the female form. There were some very graphic works that left nothing to the imagination shall we say!
Imagine my surprise when I turned the corner to find a group of primary school children sitting on the floor in front of a particularly graphic painting, having an art history lesson!
No photos from any where in the gallery i'm afraid, they were very strict about no cameras in the gallery.
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Where did spring go??
Me on a very chilly boat ride around the canals of Copenhagen. It was spring yesterday, sun hat and sunnies!
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- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Danish birds
I have been feeling like I was suffering from a sort of cultural indigestion having gorged myself on fine Architecture, museums and galleries. Some time amongst nature was required to cleanse the pallette and act something like a glass of Andrews Liver Salts.
I headed for a former army range that was now a nature reserve and here is the day list:
On the water-
Swan
Tufted duck
Pochard
Greylag geese
Black headed gulls
Various other gulls
Morehens
Mallards
In the scrub -
Long tailed tits
Obviously not a bird but as I turned to move from one spot to another there was a roe deer behind me. I moved carefully to get the camera and he was gone.
Then it starters raining....hard
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I headed for a former army range that was now a nature reserve and here is the day list:
On the water-
Swan
Tufted duck
Pochard
Greylag geese
Black headed gulls
Various other gulls
Morehens
Mallards
In the scrub -
Long tailed tits
Obviously not a bird but as I turned to move from one spot to another there was a roe deer behind me. I moved carefully to get the camera and he was gone.
Then it starters raining....hard
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One for my nephews.
I was going to go on this but they don't start until May :-(
My nephews Cam and Arch will like this:
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My nephews Cam and Arch will like this:
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Monday, 4 April 2011
Eventful morning!
It was all going so well this morning with a 15 minute up and out of the hostel. The airport bus was on time with check in and boarding all a breeze. It was a dream flight so far. With 45 people on a plane with a capacity of 160, I had the back of the plane to myself. Lush!
We were rolling down the runway and just as you expect the nose to pop up, the brakes were slammed on and the engine thrust reversed. Anxious looks from the hostess mean this isn't good!
There weren't just skid marks on the runway!! A warning light had come on so back to the terminal to re-book on to the next flight. Hats off to SAS, I was airborne within two hours and my luggage made it onto the same plane :-)
To make up for that, it is spring in wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen. Sing along anyone?
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We were rolling down the runway and just as you expect the nose to pop up, the brakes were slammed on and the engine thrust reversed. Anxious looks from the hostess mean this isn't good!
There weren't just skid marks on the runway!! A warning light had come on so back to the terminal to re-book on to the next flight. Hats off to SAS, I was airborne within two hours and my luggage made it onto the same plane :-)
To make up for that, it is spring in wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen. Sing along anyone?
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Aalto's house.
A short tram ride from the centre of Helsinki takes you to the end of the line at Munikkiemi. A short wander around the burbs as the free map of Helsinki from the hotel reception doesn't stretch that far. Not lost as such!
Aalto's house is now surrounded by tenement blocks and suburban bungaloids. It wasn't like that when the plot was purchased in open fields with a sea view. This was the family home for many years and the office for about twenty.
I had a guided tour and could then wander round taking photos. Materials and forms that found their way into later work are found here. For an Architect of such standing, the home is very modest. There is a Le Corbusier painting on the wall dedicated to Aalto's first wife.
Couple of pics to whet the appetite with more to follow on fb soon.
Aalto's house is now surrounded by tenement blocks and suburban bungaloids. It wasn't like that when the plot was purchased in open fields with a sea view. This was the family home for many years and the office for about twenty.
I had a guided tour and could then wander round taking photos. Materials and forms that found their way into later work are found here. For an Architect of such standing, the home is very modest. There is a Le Corbusier painting on the wall dedicated to Aalto's first wife.
Couple of pics to whet the appetite with more to follow on fb soon.
Sunday, 3 April 2011
Should have picked my bike up before it snowed!
This is what happens if you're too drunk to pick your bag up after the pub one night and it snows.......
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- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
When I nod my head you hit it!
This looks like it could be painful. Sorry but I'm in the burbs waiting for Aalto's house to open.
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- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone
Saturday, 2 April 2011
Scandanavian logic
Had a great piece of logic that I couldn't get round today. I saw a really great hat in a charity shop window. It was the sort of forage cap that lots of people wear round here with a band that flips up or down to protect the ears from cold. I had been looking all over for one and after disappointment at the flea market, was pretty pleased to find one. The conversation went like this:
"How much is that hat in the window please?"
"7 Euros"
"Great can I have it please."
"Yes. On Wednesday."
"Wednesday?"
"Yes. We do not sell things in the window until Wednesday."
"But I'm not here on Wednesday so could you sell it to me now. Please?"
"No."
"But I really would like it."
"NO!!"
I gave up. I could see her reaching for the panic button and I did'nt fancy a run in with the Finnish charity shop rozzers!
The lady was not for turning.
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"How much is that hat in the window please?"
"7 Euros"
"Great can I have it please."
"Yes. On Wednesday."
"Wednesday?"
"Yes. We do not sell things in the window until Wednesday."
"But I'm not here on Wednesday so could you sell it to me now. Please?"
"No."
"But I really would like it."
"NO!!"
I gave up. I could see her reaching for the panic button and I did'nt fancy a run in with the Finnish charity shop rozzers!
The lady was not for turning.
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Frustrating day!
Found an amazing flea market in the north of Helsinki in an old factory building. It was a bit like I imagined Camden to be about 30 years ago. Lots of vintage fashion and bits and bobs but nothing that I was looking for. Definately not full of tourists especially this time of year.
So on the Architectural hit list were the Rock Church - closed for renovation. The Olympic stadium - tower covered in hoarding. The Finlandia Halls - closed on a Saturday and covered in hoardings.
However, I did find Aalto's Pension Ministry building which looked pretty good. In terms of scale it was about 5 times the size of Saynatsalo but lots of the ideas tried out there are played out here. No photos on the blog but there will be a few on fb when I get back.
The National Museum of Finland was pretty good. This one is for M, an amazing clock in the museum:
So on the Architectural hit list were the Rock Church - closed for renovation. The Olympic stadium - tower covered in hoarding. The Finlandia Halls - closed on a Saturday and covered in hoardings.
However, I did find Aalto's Pension Ministry building which looked pretty good. In terms of scale it was about 5 times the size of Saynatsalo but lots of the ideas tried out there are played out here. No photos on the blog but there will be a few on fb when I get back.
The National Museum of Finland was pretty good. This one is for M, an amazing clock in the museum:
Friday, 1 April 2011
Finnish beer.
I have found a little bar downtown with ok music and candles on the table. This is appose to the other spit and sawdust joints that I passed on the way. Tonights beer is Karjala, recommended by the staff but the only Finnish beer they had on. It's ok for a lager but nothing to write home about. Label looks good though :-)
On the way in on the tram I looked at the tram tickets that other people had. They were different to mine. Then I realised that I had been buying my 'tram tickets' from parking meters!! Oops! I would have had a job explaining that to a ticket inspector!
I'm all tooled up with my 2 day Helsinki Card so have unlimited travel now.
Time to head out into the rainy streets and join the weary people in the tram queue.
On the way in on the tram I looked at the tram tickets that other people had. They were different to mine. Then I realised that I had been buying my 'tram tickets' from parking meters!! Oops! I would have had a job explaining that to a ticket inspector!
I'm all tooled up with my 2 day Helsinki Card so have unlimited travel now.
Time to head out into the rainy streets and join the weary people in the tram queue.
Saynatsalo Town Hall
The visitor book in Saynatsalo town hall now has one Oliver Golding of Winchester listed having visited today. It looks like they get an Architect visiting every other day and politely welcome you to their building. Despite the number of Architects making the pilgrimage, the folk of Saynatsalo are very proud of their town hall and you have the run of the place.
Alvar Aalto won an open competition in 1949 and the building was completed in 1951. The original competition drawings are hung on the walls.
Whilst small in scale the buildings house not only the town hall but shops, guest rooms and the library. I was very tempted to have a quick trim at the Aalto Hair Salon.
I can't say anything about the building that hasn't been said already by those more eloquent than myself. It was a magical hour or so strolling round the building, sitting in the council chamber and taking loads of photographs in the crisp frosty sunshine that set the sharp red brick building off beautifully in its grove of spruce trees.
I am now the proud owner of 3 post cards, a pencil and a cone from one of the spruces.
Couple of pics below. If you get the chance come and see for yourselves.
Just to prove I was there!!
Alvar Aalto won an open competition in 1949 and the building was completed in 1951. The original competition drawings are hung on the walls.
Whilst small in scale the buildings house not only the town hall but shops, guest rooms and the library. I was very tempted to have a quick trim at the Aalto Hair Salon.
I can't say anything about the building that hasn't been said already by those more eloquent than myself. It was a magical hour or so strolling round the building, sitting in the council chamber and taking loads of photographs in the crisp frosty sunshine that set the sharp red brick building off beautifully in its grove of spruce trees.
I am now the proud owner of 3 post cards, a pencil and a cone from one of the spruces.
Couple of pics below. If you get the chance come and see for yourselves.
Just to prove I was there!!
Frozen islands.
Photos from the plane about 20 minutes out of Stockholm. The plane was the BAe 146 or Avroliner RJ85. These are the 4 engined jets that used to fly out of Southampton airport.
The line across the bottom right corner is the shipping lane.
The line across the bottom right corner is the shipping lane.
Fast train!
Please excuse the following transport nerd moment. What am I talking about? I've been posting pictures of trains and boats since I started. I'm just this minute kicking myself for not taking photos of planes! Doh! Not to worry, after the train photos I'll post some pics of frozen Scandanavia from the air.
So as the frozen suburbs of Helsinki slide past the window here is the train.
So as the frozen suburbs of Helsinki slide past the window here is the train.
Helsinki
I can't believe what a difference a 45 minute flight from Stockholm could make. Until now all of the cities, whilst fascinating have had a familiarity about them. Helsinki is something quite different. For the first time on the trip this feels really new.
It may be the change if light which is so stark and brilliant here. All the buildings are thrown into the sharpest relief. Colours flatten in the harsh sun shine.
I walked into the city in the early evening and I was walking into the sun. Even with sun glasses the people walking in front and coming towards me were mere silhouettes and I couldn't make out the detail around me. Such an unsettling feeling.
In terms of great Architecture, Helsinki is possibly one of the most exciting cities I have visited. There are great pieces of work at almost every turn. Before I get the chance to really get around this city, I am spending the day tomorrow going up country. A day here would have been great but it's the only chance to get up to Saynatsalo. So leaving the hostel at five tomorrow morning, I have a 3 hour train journey to Jyvaskyla then a half hour bus journey back to Saynatsalo. I have wanted to visit the town hall for a good many years and I'm really excited. Hope the weather is clear and sunny for some good shots.
In the meantime, a couple of pics of Helsinki to keep you amused.
It may be the change if light which is so stark and brilliant here. All the buildings are thrown into the sharpest relief. Colours flatten in the harsh sun shine.
I walked into the city in the early evening and I was walking into the sun. Even with sun glasses the people walking in front and coming towards me were mere silhouettes and I couldn't make out the detail around me. Such an unsettling feeling.
In terms of great Architecture, Helsinki is possibly one of the most exciting cities I have visited. There are great pieces of work at almost every turn. Before I get the chance to really get around this city, I am spending the day tomorrow going up country. A day here would have been great but it's the only chance to get up to Saynatsalo. So leaving the hostel at five tomorrow morning, I have a 3 hour train journey to Jyvaskyla then a half hour bus journey back to Saynatsalo. I have wanted to visit the town hall for a good many years and I'm really excited. Hope the weather is clear and sunny for some good shots.
In the meantime, a couple of pics of Helsinki to keep you amused.
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